Tag: makan

Trail 5: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – Conquering Usui Toge Pass from Karuizawa to Yokokawa

ningzheavenLeave a comment

Day 5 Summary:
8:45 AM: Early departure from Hotel Tsuruya, hike from Karuizawa 軽井沢 to Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠 (2hr 15min)
11:00 AM: Reach Usui Toge Pass summit and shrine
11:30 AM: Begin descent into Gunma Prefecture
1:00 PM: Packed lunch in the mountain forest
3:30 PM – 5:00 PM: Navigate the steep, rocky final descent to Yokokawa
5:21 PM: Train from Yokokawa Station 横川 to Takasaki Station 高崎
5:53 PM: Arrive at Takasaki Station, walk to accommodation
Evening: Settle into Rakuten STAY HOUSE and dinner with camp provisions

Day 5 brought us to what I consider the most challenging and remote section of the entire Nakasendo Trail—the legendary Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠. This mountain crossing between Nagano and Gunma Prefectures was one of the three most notorious passes on the historic route, so difficult that an Edo-period saying warned: “Kiso no Kakehashi, Ota no Watashi, and Usui Pass are the only ones to be crossed.” After four days of hiking that had gradually built our stamina and confidence, we were as ready as we would ever be to tackle this final mountain challenge.

8:45 AM: We began Day 5 with a rushed but hearty Japanese and Western-style buffet breakfast at Hotel Tsuruya. Unlike our previous leisurely mornings, we had no time to linger—Usui Toge demanded an early start. This section was remote, unmarked in places, and would take significantly longer than the distance suggested. Armed with his homemade YouTube video downloaded to our phones, our packed provisions from Old Karuizawa, and four days of accumulated hiking experience, we set off into the cool morning air.

The trail departing Karuizawa was blissfully beautiful—a gentle, almost meditative start. The autumn morning light filtering through the canopy in golden shafts. The elevation gain from Karuizawa was gradual, only about 200 meters over several kilometers, making for a pleasant upward stroll.

11:00 AM: We reached the summit of Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠, marked by a traditional shrine that has stood watch over this mountain crossing for centuries. At approximately 1,200 meters elevation, the pass offers spectacular multi-mountain views that stretch across both Nagano and Gunma Prefectures. The panorama was genuinely picturesque—layer upon layer of mountain ridges receding into the misty distance, painted in the muted autumn colours of late November. There was also a post that marks the border between Nagano and Gunma Prefecture.

碓氷峠熊野神社 (Usui Toge Kumano Shrine)
Border of Karuizawa, Nagano and Annaka, Gunma
Historic shrine marking the Usui Toge Pass summit

We paused at the shrine to catch our breath, take photos, and for me, mentally prepare for what came next. The challenging part of Usui Toge isn’t the climb up—it’s the descent down. From this summit, we faced an 800-meter elevation drop down the Gunma Prefecture side.

11:30 AM: Crossing the prefecture border, we immediately noticed a change. The well-maintained, clearly marked trails of Nagano Prefecture gave way to something far more primitive. Here in Gunma, trail markers became sparse—just occasional weathered signs in Japanese that were difficult to read and harder to interpret. This was where the ryokan owner’s video became absolutely critical. We found ourselves stopping repeatedly to compare our surroundings to the footage on our phones, using distinctive trees, rock formations, and trail junctions to confirm we were still on the correct path.

Unlike our previous Nakasendo sections where we’d occasionally encounter other hikers or pass through villages, this stretch was remarkably isolated. We saw hardly anyone—perhaps one or two distant figures the entire day. The forest felt ancient and untouched.

1:00 PM: Deep in the mountain forest, surrounded by nothing but trees and the sound of rustling leaves, we stopped for our packed lunch. We’d brought provisions from Karuizawa—bread, fruits, and snacks—knowing there would be absolutely no facilities or food options along this route. Sitting on a fallen log in the middle of the woods, with no buildings, no signs of civilisation, and no other people in sight, we appreciated the complete remoteness of this historic trail. The dry weather held, for which we were deeply grateful—rain would have made the descent treacherous.

3:30 PM: The descent began in earnest, and we quickly understood why Usui Toge has its fearsome reputation. The trail became increasingly steep and rocky as we dropped elevation. The final kilometer was particularly brutal—a nearly vertical scramble down loose rocks and exposed roots that demanded constant attention and careful foot placement.

In a moment of questionable judgment, exhausted by the relentless downward pitch, I sat down thinking I could slide-descend in a controlled manner. This was immediately revealed to be a not so great idea—the weight of my full hiking pack made it hard to stand back up on the rocky slope.

By this point, we were focused entirely on the trail itself rather than the scenery. While autumn foliage still surrounded us, I barely noticed—every bit of attention was devoted to finding secure footholds and avoiding a tumble down the mountainside.

5:00 PM: We finally emerged from the forest trail and walked towards Yokokawa 横川, a small railway town that marks the eastern terminus of this Nakasendo section. The relief of reaching flat ground after that punishing descent was immense. We had been hiking for over eight hours with minimal breaks, and exhaustion was setting in. Yokokawa itself offered little—by the time we arrived, it was sundown.

We had hoped to catch the 4:00 PM train to Takasaki, but our later-than-planned arrival meant we’d missed it. At Yokokawa Station, we collapsed onto benches, and we were too tired to do much beyond rest our aching legs and feet. The small station offered shelter and nice cold drinks from the vending machine as we waited in the gathering dusk.

5:21 PM: The Shin-Etsu Line train arrived, and we gratefully boarded for Takasaki 高崎. The 30-minute journey felt like luxury after the day’s exertion—sitting, not moving, letting the train do the work. And this marked the end of our 5 day hiking.

5:53 PM: We arrived at Takasaki Station in full darkness. Rather than exploring this city, we simply wanted to reach our accommodation and rest. We walked from the station to our lodging, the Rakuten STAY HOUSE, located in a quiet residential neighbourhood.

Rakuten STAY HOUSE x WILL STYLE Takasaki 101
〒370-0846 群馬県高崎市下和田町1丁目11-10
1 Chome-11-10 Shimowadamachi, Takasaki, Gunma 370-0846, Japan

Evening: The accommodation was a standalone three-room, double-storey house that offered a glimpse into what a typical Japanese family home might look like. With multiple bedrooms, a full kitchen, and living spaces, it felt spacious and homey. Having this private space to spread out and decompress was exactly what we needed.

Too exhausted to venture out for dinner in an unfamiliar city, we prepared a simple meal using camp provisions we’d brought along. We’d actually packed these specifically to try them out—practice for future possible hiking trips. It was basic but satisfying, and honestly, after conquering Usui Toge, even simple food tasted like a feast.

Day 5 had taken approximately 10 hours from hotel departure to arrival at our Takasaki accommodation. The ryokan owner’s video was critical—without it, we would have struggled significantly in the poorly marked Gunma sections. We had covered roughly 14 kilometers with a 1-kilometer elevation drop, accumulating 33,037 steps—our highest count of the entire journey. More importantly, we had successfully navigated one of the Nakasendo’s most challenging and historically significant sections.

This was my first multi-day hiking experience, and completing it is a major accomplishment! Five days, four mountain passes, countless steps, and one unforgettable journey through Japan’s historic mountain interior. The Nakasendo Trail is a good trail for a beginner like me and also rewarded us with stunning natural beauty, and profound historical connections.

Tomorrow, we would leave the Nakasendo and continue our journey to Kusatsu Onsen 草津温泉, one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns. After five days of mountain hiking, onsen soaking is rewarding! The hiking portion of our adventure was complete, but the journey continued with relaxation, good food, and well-deserved rest.

Note: This trip was made in November 2024.

Trail 4: A Rest Day in Matsumoto and Journey to Karuizawa

Ning Sung LeeLeave a comment

Day 4 Summary:
8:30 AM: Breakfast at Abe Coffee
10:00 AM: Reach Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園 for autumn colours on foot
11:00 AM: Explore Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り
11:30 AM: Reach Matsumoto Castle 松本城 on foot
12:15 PM: Lunch at Sobaya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋
1:15 PM: Return to hotel for luggage,
2:06 PM: Depart Matsumoto Station 松本 via Shinano to Nagano 長野
3:25 PM: Depart Nagano Station 長野 via Asama 622 to Karuizawa 軽井沢
4:30 PM: Arrive at Karuizawa, stock up provisions at Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢
Evening: Check-in at Hotel Tsuruya and dinner at Sujyu Masayuki

After three consecutive days of hiking the Nakasendo through the Kiso Valley, Day 4 was a welcome rest day—a chance to let our tired legs recover while exploring Matsumoto’s cultural treasures before continuing our journey to the next section of the Nakasendo in Karuizawa. While Matsumoto itself is not part of the historic Nakasendo trail, this castle town served as the perfect stopover point between the Kiso Valley post towns we’d been hiking and the challenging Usui Toge Pass section that awaited us. With no mountains to climb today, we could finally walk at a leisurely pace and enjoy urban sightseeing without the weight of our hiking packs.

8:30 AM: We started the morning with a relaxed breakfast at Abe Coffee, a cozy café near our hotel. It was a small, quaint coffee shop with quality coffee and breakfast sets.

珈琲美学 アベ Abe Bigaku Coffee
Japan, 〒390-0815 Nagano, Matsumoto, Fukashi, 1 Chome−2−8 NOVAビル
Local coffee and breakfast

10:00 AM: Our first stop was Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園, a beautiful public park that showcases Matsumoto’s autumn colours. The park’s expansive grounds featured stunning fall foliage—brilliant reds, oranges, and golds. The historic Western-style school buildings on the park grounds added architectural interest, creating a peaceful blend of nature and history. It was the perfect gentle start to our sightseeing day.

あがたの森公園 (Agatanomori Park)
〒390-0812 長野県松本市県3丁目1-1
3 Chome-1-1 Agata, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0812, Japan
Beautiful autumn colours and historic school buildings

As we walked from the park toward Matsumoto Castle, we discovered one of the city’s unique treasures—its natural spring water wells. Matsumoto sits atop a subterranean aquifer that has provided fresh mountain water to the city since the Edo period. Throughout the town, there are around 20 public wells where locals and visitors alike can freely drink the crisp, cold spring water that bubbles up from deep underground.

En route to the castle, we came across the Hinode no Ido Well 日の出の井戸, one of many wells marked on the tourist maps distributed by the city. We stopped to try the water, using the communal ladle to scoop the crystal-clear spring water. It was refreshingly cold and delicious. These public wells are maintained by Matsumoto City and have been in continuous use for centuries. The spring water tradition is so integral to Matsumoto’s identity that the city is often called “the City of Spring Water.

11:00 AM: As we walked toward Matsumoto Castle 松本城, we got delightfully distracted along the way! The charming shopping streets leading to the castle were filled with craft shops, cafes, and local boutiques that demanded exploration. We wandered through Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り, a beautifully preserved merchant district with traditional white-walled kura storehouses converted into shops and galleries.

It was here, completely spontaneously, that I found a small ceramics shop run by a local craftsman. As someone who collects cups from my travels, I could not resist browsing his work. I purchased a beautiful handmade ceramic cup—a perfect memento of Matsumoto.

11:30 AM: We finally reached Matsumoto Castle. It has a striking black exterior, earning it the nickname “Crow Castle.” The castle’s elegant five-tiered keep is one of Japan’s twelve original surviving castles, dating back to the late 16th century.

松本城 (Matsumoto Castle)
〒390-0873 長野県松本市丸の内4-1
4-1 Marunouchi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0873, Japan
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
One of Japan’s twelve original castles

12:15 PM: With train schedules to keep, we needed to squeeze in lunch before our departure. We chose Soba ya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋, a well-regarded soba restaurant in Matsumoto. Their specialty was soba paired with tempura, and the combination was excellent—the buckwheat noodles had that perfect texture, and the tempura was light and crispy. It was a satisfying meal that reminded us once again how consistently good the soba had been throughout our journey along the Nakasendo.

蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋 (Soba ya Kamakuraya)
Matsumoto, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Specialty soba and tempura

2:06 PM: From Matsumoto Station 松本, we boarded the Shinano limited express bound for Nagano 長野. At Nagano Station 長野, we transferred to the Asama 622 Shinkansen—a quick, efficient ride that would take us to Karuizawa 軽井沢 in under an hour. We were now traveling to Karuizawa, which marked the eastern end of the Nakasendo trail and would be the starting point for our final hiking day.

4:30 PM: Karuizawa immediately felt different from anywhere else we had visited on this trip. This mountain resort town at 1,000 meters elevation has a distinctly Western atmosphere—a legacy of its history as a popular summer retreat for foreign missionaries and diplomats in the late 19th century.

Our first priority was food and provisions. Tomorrow would bring our final and most challenging Nakasendo hike—from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠 and on to Yokokawa 横川. The Usui Toge Pass was one of the three most difficult passes on the historic Nakasendo, notorious during the Edo period for its steepness and remoteness. We needed to stock up on food for both tonight’s dinner prep and tomorrow’s long hike.

We made our way to Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢, the historic shopping street that forms the heart of the town’s original resort area. The street was lined with bakeries, grocery stores, and specialty food shops. We gathered bread, snacks, and fresh fruit—essential fuel for what we anticipated would be a demanding day. Note that the shops close at sundown, so it is important to quickly grab what you need!

Evening: We checked into Hotel Tsuruya 旧軽井沢ホテル, a wonderful traditional ryokan that perfectly captured Karuizawa’s unique character—Japanese hospitality with that subtle Western influence that defines this resort town. Our room featured both Western beds and traditional futon options.

What made our stay at Tsuruya truly invaluable was meeting the ryokan owner. When we mentioned our planned hike to Usui Toge the next day, he showed us a YouTube video he had personally filmed of the exact trail we would be taking! This was incredibly fortunate—the route from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass and down to Yokokawa is one of the most remote sections of the Nakasendo. Unlike our previous trail days, this route had no maps available! His video would become our primary navigation tool for the following day’s adventure.

旧軽井沢ホテル (Hotel Tsuruya)
〒389-0102 長野県北佐久郡軽井沢町旧軽井沢６７８
678 Kyu-Karuizawa, Karuizawa, Kitasaku District, Nagano 389-0102, Japan
http://www.tsuruyaryokan.jp/
Traditional ryokan with Western influences

For dinner, we walked to Sujyu Masayuki, a fusion restaurant that blended Japanese and Western culinary influences—perfectly fitting for Karuizawa’s hybrid cultural identity. The meal was creative and delicious, providing comfort food we craved after days of hiking.

Sujyu Masayuki
Karuizawa, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Fusion cuisine

Day 4 covered approximately 17,085 steps of urban exploration rather than mountain trails—a welcome change of pace that allowed our hiking-weary bodies to recover while still experiencing the rich cultural heritage of Matsumoto and the unique atmosphere of Karuizawa. The spontaneous encounters (like the ceramic craftsman), the stunning Matsumoto Castle, the refreshing discovery of Matsumoto’s spring water wells, the successful shopping, and especially the fortuitous meeting with the Tsuruya owner all reinforced that some of travel’s best moments come from flexibility and openness to unexpected experiences.

Tomorrow would bring our most remote and challenging hike yet—the legendary Usui Toge Pass. During the Edo period, this pass was so notoriously difficult that it was said “Kiso no Kakehashi, Ota no Watashi, and Usui Pass are the only ones to be crossed.” The climb from Karuizawa would be relatively gentle (only 200 meters elevation gain), but the descent on the Yokokawa side would be a steep 800-meter drop. Armed with the ryokan owner’s homemade trail videos, packed provisions, and four days of accumulated hiking experience, we were as ready as we could be for this final mountain crossing. After completing this section, we planned to continue our journey to the famous hot spring town of Kusatsu Onsen for a well-deserved soak.

Note: This trip was made in November 2024.

5D5N roadtrip in August Hokkaido! Day 5: Sight, Smell and Savor at Lake Toya and Noboribetsu

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Day 5 Summary:

  • 9:00 AM: Check out and drive to Lake Toya 洞爺湖 (1hr)
  • 10:30AM: Lake Toya Cruise Ride with disembarkation at Nakanoshima 中島 and back (80mins)
  • 12:00 NN: Drive to Takashina Fruit Farm (15min)
  • 12:15 PM: Visit to Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園
  • 1:15 PM: Drive to Noboribetsu onsen cho 登別温泉町
  • 2:15 PM: Lunch at Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン
  • 3:00 PM: Stop by Shrine of King Enma for a short display
  • 3:45 – 4:20 PM: Explore Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷
  • 7:00 PM: Dinner at a soba restaurant in Sapporo Kirinoshita 蕎麦屋 霧の下

9:00 AM: We kicked off Day 5 with an early start, and had a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel. The drive towards Lake Toya was lovely and surrounded by lush greenery.

10:30AM: After about an hour, we arrived at the lake just in time for our Lake Toya Cruise Ride. Take note Nakanoshima Cruise Pier 中島巡り遊覧船桟橋 is located behind Hotel Grand Toya and there is free parking nearby. Cruise departs every 30 mins from the pier from 9am.

Toyakokisen Ferry Terminal 中島巡り遊覧船桟橋 洞爺湖汽船
Toyakoonsen, Toyako, Abuta District, Hokkaido 049-5721, Japan
〒049-5721　北海道虻田郡洞爺湖町洞爺湖温泉36-4
https://hokkaidoguide.com/lake-toya-ferry-cruise/
Map Code: 321 518 599 (Please double check location on map before driving!)

Lake Toya 洞爺湖 is breathtaking—a caldera lake with serene, glassy waters surrounded by picturesque mountains. The cruise gave us a relaxing chance to take in the stunning views, and the cool breeze on the deck was refreshing. Mount Usu 有珠山, an active volcano, loomed in the distance. The last time it erupted was in 2000. The cruise makes a stop at Nakajima and you can decide to disembark to hike on the island which is part of the Toya-Usu UNESCO Global Geopark. We decided to take some photos and a quick stroll on the island and then took the next cruise back.

Note! There’s fireworks in summer to autumn, but we did not plan to catch it this time. You can consider staying a night here at Lake Toya instead. There are also hikes which you can take for a day trip.

12:15 PM: Our next stop was the Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園 after we docked back on land and it was a short 10-15 min drive away. It’s a charming farm offering fresh fruit-picking experiences. While we missed fruit picking at Furano, we were just in time for blueberry season in Toyako! So, we grabbed baskets and set out into the fields. Picking the plump, sweet berries was a fun break and snacking on them fresh from the vine was a treat! The owners were nice, and gave us some plumes on top of the blueberry buffet. Again, be sure to check their website for what is in season so to avoid any disappointment!

Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園
362 Takinomachi, Sōbetsu-chō, Usu District, Hokkaido 052-0101, Japan
〒052-0101 北海道有珠郡壮瞥町滝之町３６２番地
https://tk-fruit.com/

2:15 PM: For lunch, we headed towards Noboribetsu’s Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン, known for its lively atmosphere and hearty grilled meat dishes. We indulged in a delicious yakiniku meal, with sizzling cuts of beef and pork cooked right at our table. The mix of flavors—smoky, savory, and slightly sweet—was simply irresistible. It was the perfect way to refuel before continuing our journey.

Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン
〒059-0551 Hokkaido, Noboribetsu, Noboribetsuonsencho, 76番地 石川ビル ２F

3:00 PM: After lunch, we visited the Shrine of King Enma, a towering guardian figure that stood watch over the area. There is a short display of music and change of face to remind people not to do evil! We did not visit the shrine itself as we had insufficient time this trip, but definitely worth a return in future!

3:45PM: Our next destination was Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷, which was just around the corner from King Enma. Noboribetsu Jigokudani is a volcanic crater spanning 11 hectares with a 450-meter diameter, formed by the volcanic activity of Mt. Hiyori from about 10,000 years ago. The valley is dotted with fumaroles and steaming vents, where bubbling, boiling waters give the landscape a surreal, almost otherworldly look—earning it the name “Oni no Sumu Jigoku,” or “Hell Where Demons Live.”

The landscape here was unlike anything else we’d seen or smelt so far on the trip—steaming hot springs, bubbling sulfur pits, and dramatic rock formations gave it an otherworldly feel. We took a short walk along the valley’s wooden paths in the drizzle, which lead to a viewpoint overlooking the entire area. The valley’s raw, rugged landscape really made it feel like we were standing on another planet. The water runs through with a jade like colour. Parking was 500 yen but you can park freely at the different parking lots available after payment. So instead of walking to Oyunuma 大湯沼 and okunoyu 奥の湯, we drove over.

The place is hot and steaming, smelt terrible but makes you want to stay for the onsen! If you have an additional night, I recommend staying here! Noboribetsu is one of Hokkaido’s famous spa towns, and its naturally occurring hot springs rank among Japan’s best.

Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷
Noboribetsuonsencho, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido 059-0551, Japan
https://noboribetsu-spa.jp/en/spot/spot0034/
https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1908/
Map Code: 603 288 360 (Please double check location on map before driving!)

By late afternoon, we were back on the road, heading towards Sapporo. It was a long but scenic drive. The drive was overall pleasant, taking the toll roads. However, you want to take note that there might be traffic jam driving into Sapporo at the exits. Remember to cater time for slow traffic if you are heading back to Sapporo. We took at least 1.5 hours exiting the highway.

7:00 PM: We arrived in Sapporo just in time for vehicle return and dinner. After checking into our hotel, we decided to go for something comforting and local—soba. We found a cozy soba restaurant Kirinoshita 蕎麦屋 霧の下 where the noodles were handmade and served cold with a dipping sauce. After a full day of exploring, the simplicity and freshness of the meal were exactly what we needed to wind down.

Kirinoshita Sapporo Apia Ten 霧の下 札幌アピア店
3 Chome Kita 5 Jonishi, Chuo Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 060-0005, Japan
https://tabelog.com/hokkaido/A0108/A010803/1059982/

This ends my 5 day trip in Sapporo! Thanks for following! Hope you enjoy the mix of natural beauty, cultural sites and delicious food of Sapporo!

5D5N in August Hokkaido! Day 4: Exploring Otaru and Relaxing in Niseko

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Otaru’s history as a prosperous port city during the Meiji period is evident in its old warehouses and European-inspired architecture. Otaru was once a hub for the herring fishing industry. It also served as a gateway for trade with Russia. Now, Otaru has transformed into a nostalgic tourist destination. It offers good food and beautiful crafts. Let’s dive into where to eat and shop during our visit!

Day 4 Summary:

  • 8:00 AM: Breakfast at Sankaku Shijo Otaru (三角市場 小樽)
  • Checkout from hotel and drove to Sakaimachi
  • 11:00 AM: Shopping in Otaru – Otaru Music Box Museum (小樽オルゴール堂 本館), Sakaimachi Street (小樽堺町通り商店街)
  • 3:15 PM: Leave for Niseko
  • 5:00 PM: Reach Hilton Niseko Village Resort
  • Onsen and dinner

8:00 AM: We began our day with a delicious breakfast. It was at Sankaku Shijo Otaru (三角市場 小樽) a small but lively morning market near the train station. If you love seafood, this place is heaven. (Note! It opens only at 8am.) Compared to other fish markets I have been to in Japan, Sankaku Shijo is not large. That said, in this small market, there are several places offering delicious and reasonably priced kaisen dons (sashimi over rice bowls).

Yes, people eat raw fish for breakfast in Japan! We picked the largest restaurant there as we were really hungry and did not want to wait. The place is called Ajidokoro Takeda 味処たけだ. It’s right in the center of the market so you will not miss it.

Ajidokoro Takeda (味処たけだ)
〒047-0032 Hokkaido, Otaru, Inaho, 3 Chome−10−16 三角市場内
otaru-takeda.com

There were uni dons (bowls with only sea urchin), and what’s amazing is that there were two different types of uni. You can choose to have either one or both. Besides uni, crab is one of their popular dishes. As such, I indulged in a Three-toppings rice bowl or 三色丼, with crab, salmon roe and uni. Every bite was heavenly. For those who prefer something else, there are plenty of options including cooked items too!

11:00 AM: After breakfast, we explored the charming streets of Otaru. Our first stop was the Otaru Music Box Museum 小樽オルゴール堂 本館, which was at one end of the Sakaimachi 小樽堺町通り商店街.

Trivia: オルゴール comes from the word orgel which means organ in Dutch.

Stepping inside felt like entering a dream. The museum is filled with beautifully crafted music boxes, each one unique. There are three floors. The first floor is mainly items on sale, the second floor is for crafts and museum, and on the third floor, I found a shop dedicated to Studio Ghibli-themed music boxes! Hearing the delicate tunes from My Neighbor Totoro was enchanting. The soft melodies floating through the museum made it a magical start to our day. We couldn’t resist and bought a music box from here.

Otaru Music Box Museum 小樽オルゴール堂 本館
4-1 Sumiyoshicho, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0015, Japan
otaru-orgel.co.jp

Next, we wandered down Sakaimachi Street (小樽堺町通り商店街), famous for its glassware shops. It’s the perfect place to pick up one-of-a-kind souvenirs. I picked up a beautiful hand-blown glass wind chime and a sake bottle set to bring home. The street also has tempting snacks—I highly recommend trying the green tea, cantaloupes, and dried squid.

3:15 PM: After shopping, we left Otaru and hit the road towards Hilton Niseko Village. This continues our journey in Hokkaido. The drive through the lush landscape was scenic, and by the time we arrived, we were ready for some relaxation.

5:00 PM: The outdoor onsen was exactly what I needed. The hot spring’s warmth eased away the day’s fatigue, and the stunning backdrop made it all the more special. For dinner, I decided to try something iconic—Hokkaido soup curry. This rich, flavorful dish was the perfect balance of hearty and spicy, filled with local vegetables and tender meat. A satisfying end to the day after soaking in the onsen.

Day 4 was a perfect mix of exploring Otaru’s historic charm and unwinding in Niseko’s natural beauty. Tomorrow promises more adventures!

Hilton Niseko Village
Niseko, Abuta District, Hokkaido 048-1592, Japan
hilton.com

5D5N in August Hokkaido! Day 3 in Otaru: Sunflowers, Chocolate, and Stunning Views

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Day 3 Summary:

  • 8:00 AM Check out from Y’s Hotel Asahikawa Station and drive
  • 9:30 AM Hokuryu Sunflower Village (Hokuryu Himawari no Sato)
  • 10:30 AM Drive towards Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town
  • 12:15 PM Lunch at a teishoku spot Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori in a nearby town
  • 1:00 PM Visit to Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town
  • 3:15 PM Quick stop at MEGA Don Quijote in Shirono
  • 5:15 PM Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck for a sea view
  • 8:00 PM Nighttime canal photos and dinner at Gyukaku in Otaru

8:00 AM After a restful night at Y’s Hotel in Asahikawa, we kicked off Day 3 of our Hokkaido adventure. We started the day with a scenic drive. Though Asahikawa is Hokkaido’s second-largest city, we didn’t linger. Instead, we headed straight for Hokuryu Sunflower Village, also known as Hokuryu Himawari no Sato, about an hour away.

9:15 AM There was a bit of a detour before we reached our destination. We accidentally ended up at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Hot Spring! But with a quick check-in for directions at the hotel, we were soon back on track and spotted our goal: the massive, vibrant sunflower fields at Hokuryu Sunflower Village.

The sight was absolutely breathtaking, with millions of sunflowers in full bloom, all standing tall and facing the same direction. The cheerful atmosphere made it impossible not to smile! Admission to the village is free, it’s open 24/7, and parking is also free—so it’s a must-visit if you’re in the area. If you have time, don’t miss the sunflower maze (maze requires entrance fee though!); it’s a fun way to immerse yourself in the beauty of the fields. We spent about 1 hour here, but you can easily stay longer just soaking it all in.

Hokuryu Sunflower Village (北竜町ひまわりの里)
143-2 Itaya, Hokuryu, Uryu District, Hokkaido 078-2511, Japan
Free Parking
Map Code Used: 179 870 679 (for Sunflower Park Hokuryu Hot Spring)
http://portal.hokuryu.info/himawari

12:15 PM Next on our agenda was a visit to the Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town. But first, we stopped for a delightful lunch at a small teishoku (set meal) restaurant. Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori was in a nearby town. The meal was simple yet delicious, reminding me of comforting school lunches. 

Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori (定食屋とし&のり 当別店)
1509-222 Futomisutaraito, Tobetsu, Ishikari District, Hokkaido 061-3779, Japan
Free Parking
https://www.toshiandnori-toubetu.com/

1:00 PM Upon arriving at  Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town, for 1,200 yen, we took a fascinating tour of the facility. We learned about their cocoa sourcing. We also explored the interactive exhibits. It was a great exhibition with English explanations. I recommend giving it a go if you have time. One highlight was the jukebox museum inside—such a quirky addition! Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying the famous Royce chocolate ice cream, which was as decadent and creamy as expected. And, you cannot leave without buying lots of chocolate home! (Side note: We made a mistake of parking in the staff lot. We wondered why all the cars did not look like they were rented. Make sure you park at the right carpark!)

ROYCE’ CACAO&CHOCOLATE TOWN (ロイズカカオ&チョコレートタウン)
640-15 Bitoe, Tobetsu, Ishikari District, Hokkaido 061-3775, Japan
Free Parking
https://www.royce.com/cct/?fbclid=IwAR3PM9G5PkXuSFiScW-ROz9i0BqNiNONrAi_cysbHnhETmWVKMq0L8t3L-k

We made a quick stop at MEGA Don Quijote in Shirono for some shopping, then drove to the Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck. The view of the sea from the deck was absolutely stunning and made for a perfect photo op. 

MEGA Don Quijote, Shinoro (MEGAドン・キホーテ 篠路店)
1 Chome-1-1 Taihei 12 Jo, Kita Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 002-8012, Japan

Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck (小樽祝津パノラマ展望台)
3 Chome Shukutsu, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0047, Japan
https://otaru-hokkaido.com/shukutsupanoramatembodai/

Before wrapping up the day, we returned to Otaru for some nighttime canal photography and ended the day with a cozy dinner at Gyukaku. It was a day full of surprises, great food, and unforgettable sights. Stay tuned for Day 4 as we continue exploring Hokkaido! Don’t forget to subscribe for more travel videos and articles!

Hotel – We stayed at Otaru Authent Hotel. There’s parking beside the hotel at 1500 yen.

Otaru Authent Hotel (オーセントホテル小樽)
2 Chome-15-1 Inaho, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0032, Japan
http://www.authent.co.jp/
Parking 1,500 yen beside the hotel

Niigata: A Hidden Gem in Japan – 5D4N – Day 4/5

ningzheaven

Day 4/5: Minami-Uonuma 南魚沼: A Serene Escape

Itinerary

  • Travel to Ogi and back
  • 9:30AM Depart Ryotsu Port 両津 to Niigata Port 新潟 on Sado Kisen Jetfoil 佐渡汽船 ジェットフォイル
  • 10:37AM Arrive at Niigata Port 新潟
  • Lunch at Niigata
  • 1:03PM Depart Niigata Station 新潟駅 to Echigo Yuzawa Station 越後湯沢駅 on Jōetsu Shinkansen Toki 62
  • 1:46PM Arrive at Echigo Yuzawa Station 越後湯沢駅
  • Ponshukan Sake Museum
  • 3:15PM Bus to Ryugon 龍言
  • 5:00PM Dinner at Ryugon
  • 8:30PM Shamizen Performance at Ryugon

Next Day

  • 8:00AM Breakfast at Ryugon
  • 10:30AM Travel to Hakkaisan Yukimuro
  • 12NN Lunch at Echigo Winery

The last part of our Niigata trip was spent in Minami-Uonuma. Two key destination points are Hakkaisan and Ryugon.

Morning – Sado Island

Before we headed to Minami-Uonuma, we took a quick ride around Sado to the beautiful coastal view of Shukunegi and then to the port.

Sado Island has two ports, Ryotsu Port, which connects to Niigata city (Niigata Port) and Ogi Port, which connects to Joetsu (Naoetsu Port). Do note that the ferry route to Naoetsu does not run throughout the year. Remember to check the Sado Kisen site on ferry timings and availability. This trip, we decided to take the ferry (Jetfoil) back to Niigata Port.

There are many options before heading to Minami-Uonuma. The option we took is to have lunch at Niigata City, travel to Echigo Yuzawa then the Ponshukan at Yuzawa Station to grab the free ride to Ryugon. You could also consider lunch at Niigata, Ponshukan at Niigata and walk around Niigata before taking train to Muikamachi Station, or spend more time on Sado.

You can choose between sushi or soba in Niigata City, though many sushi restaurants do not open on Sunday in Niigata.

Lunch – Suzakaya Soba Niigata Station 須坂屋そば 新潟駅前店

〒950-0901 Niigata, Chuo Ward, Benten, 1 Chome−4−29 1F～3F ＩＭＡビル

Yum yum, hegi soba.

Ponshukan Echigo Yuzawa Sake Museum ぽんしゅ館

〒949-6101 2427-3 Yuzawa, Yuzawamachi, Minamiuonuma, Niigata

Here you get to try all sorts of Nihon-shu or sake! You get 5 coins for 500 yen. Sake are charged between 1 to 3 coins each. Just place your cup, insert coins and press the button to dispense. There are rankings and staff recommendations if you cannot decide.

Stay – Ryugon 龍言

The stay at Ryugon Ryokan was nothing short of enchanting. This traditional Japanese inn provided a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The serene atmosphere, combined with the impeccable service and attention to detail, made for an unforgettable experience. The ryokan’s exquisite gardens and soothing hot springs allows for a good relaxation.

Ryugon, located in Minami Uonuma, Niigata, is a historic building situated at the foot of Mount Sakado. It has a rich history. It is named Ryugon as it was built on the ruins of Ryugon temple which was a branch temple of the ancestral temple Unto-an of Nagao Masagake, brother-in-law to Uesugi Kenshin, former lord of Sakado Castle. Originally a branch temple, it now showcases unique folk architecture from the region.

After withstanding harsh winters of Niigata, Ryugon underwent renovations into an onsen ryokan with a focus on the “Snow Country Culture”. The rejuvenated Ryugon offers a blend of tradition and modernity, providing a serene escape for guests seeking a unique experience in the snowiest region of Japan.

After settling in, have a nice stroll around the ryokan. Be treated to a free flow of snacks as well as sake before dinner. Speaking of dinner, we were treated to a delectable dinner at Ryugon. The traditional kaiseki meal showcased the finest local ingredients and flavors. Each dish featured the essence of Niigata and I loved everything we had! I love rice, but Niigata’s rice is on a different level – it was so good and unforgettable! Look at how the rice glistens! We passed by the lands where the rice was from on our way to the hotel.

Ryugon is well-known for its hospitality. We were there on a Sunday, and were lucky to catch a Shamizen performance! Be sure to catch the performance, enjoy the onsen at night and in the morning as well before breakfast.

Breakfast was also a joy! Again, I loved the rice and all the accompanying dishes.

Next Day – Exploring Hakkaisan

On the second day of my Minami-Uonuma adventure, we went to Hakkaisan Sake Brewery. The views were breathtaking and if you have time, can consider going on a hike at Hakkaisan. We were there for the nihonshu so we headed straight to the Yukimuro 雪室. After the tour through the Yukimuro, we enjoyed the free flow of free sake tastings. Junmaidaijinjyo is still the one of my favourites, and I discovered the 3 Year brew!

Nigirimeshi Teppen　にぎりめしてっぺん

〒949-7112 415-23 Nagamori, Minamiuonuma, Niigata

Minami-Uonuma offers a captivating itinerary filled with cultural discoveries, scenic landscapes, and unforgettable experiences. One night was too short, definitely worth a second visit. My stay at Ryugon Ryokan was nothing short of enchanting and given the activities available, 2 nights stay will definitely be worthwhile.

This ends the 5 day 4 night trip to Niigata. All in all, if you love food, nature and history, Niigata is a hidden gem in Japan not to be missed.

Niigata: A Hidden Gem in Japan – 5D4N – Day 3

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Day 3: Echigo Yuzawa （越後湯沢） to Sado Island （佐渡）

Itinerary

  • 9:06AM Depart Echigo Yuzawa Station 越後湯沢駅 on Jōetsu Shinkansen Toki 305 to Niigata Station
  • 9:51AM Arrive at Niigata Station 新潟駅
  • 11:30AM Depart Niigata Port 新潟 to Ryotsu Port 両津 on Sado Kisen Jetfoil 佐渡汽船 ジェットフォイル
  • 12:37PM Arrive at Ryotsu Port 両津
  • 12:40PM Drive to Sado Kinzan 佐渡金山(Car ride about 40 mins)
  • 1:30PM Tour at Sado Kinzan 佐渡金山
  • 2:30PM Leave for Sado Island Taiko Centre (Tatakokan) たたこ館 (Car ride about 1 hr)
  • 3:30PM Taiko drum experience at Sado Island Taiko Centre (Tatakokan) たたこ館
  • 6:00PM Dinner at Motsuyaki Den Sadokanaiten もつ焼 でん 佐渡金井店

Day three we are off to our next location in Niigata! Sado Island.

Sado island

Sado island is the island off the northern coast of Niigata. Sized at around 800 km², Sado is an island home to many rare birds, natural beauty, great food and history. Visitors can immerse themselves in the island’s abundant natural beauty, from rare bird species to stunning vistas. Sado Island is a must-visit destination that promises unforgettable experiences. Can find more information on Sado Island at their Tourism site.

Sado Island is reachable via two ports, one in Niigata city (Niigata Port) to Ryotsu Port on Sado Island, and the other in Joetsu (Naoetsu Port) to Ogi Port on Sado Island. Do note that the ferry route from Naoetsu does not run throughout the year and is for car ferry. Also, ferry frequency is in interval of about 1.5 hour. Remember to check the Sado Kisen site on ferry timings and availability. This trip, we decided to take the ferry (Jetfoil) from Niigata Port as it was faster to reach Niigata via Shinkansen.

11:30AM Niigata Shinkansen Station is not far from the ferry terminal so you can choose between taking the cab or bus. If you are traveling in a group of three or more, you may wish to consider taking the cab. We took the cab and it cost ¥1170 to get to the ferry terminal. By bus, it would be ¥260 per person. We had quite a bit of time to shop around the ferry terminal, but if you are cutting it close, I would suggest reaching at least 30 minutes before time. This is so that there is sufficient time to get your tickets off the counter before the boarding time which is about 15 minutes before departure. The ferry ride is about an hour, long enough for a nap!

On the island, there are bus services as well as chartered cabs. We decided to rent a car so that we can control our timings and with more flexibility. If you are driving too, be sure to have your international driving permit before arriving in Japan!

The coastal views and rock formations are breathtaking. Driving along the coast is definitely recommended. Roads on this island are not complicated. They are generally single lane roads – split into 国道 (State Road) vs 県道 (Prefecture Road). State Roads are much better maintained and the Prefecture Roads might be mountain roads. You may wish to refer to the map for the differences. In this case, the Japanese rental cars GPS systems will typically recommend taking the national roads.

Sado Gold Mine 佐渡金山

1:30PM Our first stop is the Sado Kinzan or Sado Gold Mine. Sado Island has a rich history that dates back centuries. One of the most significant aspects of its history is its gold mine. The gold mine on Sado Island was first discovered in the 17th century and quickly became one of the most productive mines in Japan. It played a crucial role in the economy, attracting many workers and contributing to the wealth of the island. During the Edo period, Sado Island’s gold mine was under the control of the Tokugawa shogunate. The gold extracted from Sado Island’s mine was used to finance the shogunate’s military campaigns and support the economy.

There are different mine tunnels, where you can learn about the mining techniques used in the past, and gain insight into the lives of the workers. We took the Sohdayu Tunnel Mine, which is a 30-minute course that displays the mining experience of the Edo period (1603-1867) with mechanised displays. There are 3 other courses, and one involves wearing MR glasses, which we did not go for this time. The tunnels can get quite cold so be sure to wear a jacket.

Sado Island Taiko Centre たたこう館

3:30PM After the gold mine, we drove to the other side of the island. We signed up for a one hour trial session to learn how to play the traditional Japanese drum – taiko.

Taiko is a traditional Japanese drumming style that has a rich cultural history. It involves the dynamic and energetic performance of various drumming techniques on large drums called “taiko.” The art of taiko drumming originated in Japan and has been a part of Japanese festivals, ceremonies, and performances for centuries.

We had an very passionate instructor who guided us through basic techniques and creating rhythms together as a group. It was a fascinating experience! Highly recommended if you have time. The session costs ¥2,500 per person. For more information about the Sado Island Taiko Centre, including opening hours, please visit their official website.

Nameたたこう館
Address〒952-0611新潟県佐渡市小木金田新田150-3
Emailtatakokan@kodo.or.jp
Tel0259-86-2320

Unfortunately, it was raining very heavily on Sado Island that evening so we did not try the washtub boat ride.

Tabino Hotel Sado

This trip, we stayed at Tabino. Tabino Hotel Sado is a very comfortable hotel. The hotel was one of the tallest buildings (at round 5 floors) in the area. The best part of the hotel was the nearby restaurant selling motsuyaki.

Motsuyaki Den Sadokanaiten もつ焼 でん 佐渡金井店

  • Address: 99-8 Chigusa, Sado, Niigata 952-1209, Japan
  • 〒952-1209 新潟県佐渡市千種99-8
  • TEL/FAX 0259-58-7444.

If you would like to try some raw beef or pork or innards, Motsuyaki Den Sadokanaiten will be probably the best restaurant where you will ever have these. Do not make the same mistake as I did, or at least make this mistake knowingly – sashimi at this place is not raw fish but raw meat innards. We had raw pork fallopian tube, raw beef tongue and raw pork liver. We had a feast that night as everything was very cheap and tasty.

I concluded that more time is needed on Sado Island! If you can, should take an earlier ferry to Sado!

Niigata: A Hidden Gem in Japan – 5D4N – Day 2

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Day 2: Echigo Yuzawa （越後湯沢）

Itinerary

  • 8:00AM Breakfast at Ryokan
  • 9:40AM Bus from Yuzawa Station Bus Terminal 湯沢駅前 Lane 1 to Naeba Prince Hotel Stop 苗場プリンスホテル前
  • 10:21AM Arrive at Naeba Prince Hotel Stop 苗場プリンスホテル前
  • ~10:35PM Shuttle Bus to Dragondola Sanroku Station and Dragondola ride
  • 11PM Reach Dragondola Sancho Station
  • 12:20PM Dragondola back to Dragondola Sanroku Station
  • 12:52PM Bus from Naeba Prince Hotel Stop 苗場プリンスホテル前 to Yuzawa Station 湯沢駅前
  • 1:38PM Reach Yuzawa Station 湯沢駅前
  • Lunch at Shinbashi / Shopping
  • 2:40PM Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway
  • 4:20PM Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway back to Yuzawa
  • 5PM Dinner at Yuzawa Kamakura
  • Onsen at ryokan

Day 2 in Echigo Yuzawa started with a nice hearty breakfast at the ryokan!

9:15AM After filling our tummies, we set off towards Yuzawa Station where there is a bus (Lane 1) that will take us to the Dragondola. The walk was short and we reached the bus terminal at least 15 minutes before the scheduled departure time. However, there was already a long queue! We had no seats but thankfully we got on the bus. I suggest to reach the bus terminal early like us to avoid disappointment. Also, you should check the latest bus timings either at the tourist information center or at your ryokan in case there are updates to the schedule due to the season like our case.

9:40AM The bus ride was approximately 40 minutes and takes you through the mountains. Nice scenery along the way. In order to get to the Dragondola, you will need to transfer to another shuttle bus at the Naeba Prince Hotel. The ride to Naeba Prince Hotel costs 700 yen. This bus did not accept Suica or Pasmo when I took it. Remember to have some cash on hand! If travelling in a group, you can also combine your payment and pay with notes as well.

Alternative Route! You can also consider a different route, which is to start with the Tashiro Ropeway. It brings you above 二居湖（ふたいこ）Lake Futai before reaching the top. It’s the same bus, but instead of alighting at Naeba Prince Hotel Stop 苗場プリンスホテル前, you alight at Futai Tashiro Ski Resort Stop 二居田代スキー場前. Tashiro Ropeway (1066 Mikuni, Yuzawa-machi, Minami Uonuma-gun, Niigata 949-6212)

  • 10:21AM Arrived at Naeba Prince Hotel Stop 苗場プリンスホテル前. So, the route we took was a round trip on Dragondola itself. It should be pretty obvious where to alight – most people will alight at the Naeba Prince Hotel stop. Here, there is a building where you can buy round trip tickets (3,800 yen) for the Dragondola and take the shuttle bus to the Dragondola station. We missed one bus after arrival but another bus soon came after, so you need not worry about waiting for too long. There isn’t much to do here anyway, so hop on to the next shuttle bus when you see it.
  • The shuttle service stops right at the Dragondola station, you can follow the crowd or just walk up towards the ground floor to catch the gondola.

Dragondola Sanroku Station

Address202 Mikuni, Yuzawa-machi, Minami Uonuma-gun, Niigata 949-6292
DirectionsBus from Echigoyuzawa Station (East Exit) bound for Naeba Prince Hotel then shuttle bus
Opening Times9:00A.M. – 3:00P.M. (Last downbound 4:00P.M.)
Check for seasonal operation times!
Websitehttps://www.princehotels.com/en/ski/autumn/mtnaeba.html

Dragondola

The Dragondola ride is approximately 25 minutes. At 5,481metres long, it is said to be Japan’s longest gondola. It goes through a few peaks, so look out for the majestic view as it passes each peak. The view is spectacular with a few picturesque viewpoints to look out for.

I was with a couple of friends and we joined another passenger on the same ride. Some of us took the front seats and I took the back facing seats. Personally, I felt that for this direction, both views were great. What you might want to take note of is if you are on the left or the right. If you are seated on the right (when forward facing), you will be able to catch pictures of Lake Futai. There is also a small “caveat” – If you are afraid of heights, I suggest grabbing the forward facing seats! The final climb is rather long and can be initimidating if you are looking at the depth as it climbs higher.

At the top of Kagura, there are food trucks, coffee and snacks. There’s also a restaurant where you can have food (Last Order 2:30pm). For us, we walked towards Lake Tashiro. We rode the Rakuraku Lift （ラクラクリフト）up to the end of the Tashiro Ropeway. I recommend taking the lift up as the alternative route is fairly steep! The view of the area was very pretty even though it was the tail-end of the autumn colours on this end. You can take the ropeway back or you can make a turn like us. This time I didn’t take the lift down. Instead I took a nice stroll down and enjoyed the nice weather and view.

We took the Dragondola back and this time I sat on the front facing seats. While the view is the equally pretty and colorful, the experience was different. You are always drawing nearer towards the bottom of the valley. If you want a different view, you might want to shift sides instead. This time, you will see the lake on the left and autumn colours on the right.

12:52PM We were not hungry so we decided to take the 12:52PM bus back to Yuzawa. If you are considering a non repeat route instead of our route, I recommend Tashiro Ropeway → Rakuraku Lift → Dragondola instead of the opposite direction. You are more likely be able to get on to the bus on your return if there is a crowd. Personally, I think the roundtrip on Dragondola was worth it for the view and the longer ride.

1:38PM After reaching Yuzawa Station 湯沢駅前, our next step is Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway. Given the differences in temperature, Yuzawa Kogen Autumn was pre-peak while Kagura was post-peak. Something to note if you are chasing autumn colours. If hungry, you can make a short detour for soba!

Shinbashi

If you desire food, I recommend hegi soba at Shinbashi. It is on the way to the Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway. Hand-made soba with great texture and taste. What more can I say! Loved it.

Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway

2:40PM The Ropeway departs every 20 minutes and take about 7 minutes to reach top of Alp no Sato. It is 1,300 metres long and is said to be one of the world’s biggest ropeways, having a capacity of 166 passengers. Alp no Sato is at an altitude of 1,000 meters, and features a garden made with rocks, as well as 200 rare species of alpine plants you would normally only see at highlands around 2,500 meters above sea level. On your way up, you get to see the view of Echigo-Yuzawa and its surroundings. Round trip was 2,600 yen.

Weather was not great when we arrived so we did not go far. However, we caught double rainbows! What a lucky sight! If you like, you can take an earlier ride and enjoy the view and work around the area. There is a bus shuttle to bring us up the slope or you can take a walk up.

Address新潟県南魚沼郡湯沢町大字湯沢490
Directions10 minutes on foot from the west exit of JR Echigo-Yuzawa Station
Opening Times【Ropeway】Late April to Mid-November: 8:40A.M. to 5:00P.M.（Operation Frequency: Every 20 minutes）
Websitehttps://enjoyniigata.com/en/spot/6943

We spent about 1 and a half hours before catching the last gondola down for more food and onsen! Dinner was at this place called Yuzawa Kamakura, an izakaya. Good for drinks and rice balls, grilled fish, chicken and beef!

Yuzawa Kamakura

Niigata: A Hidden Gem in Japan – 5D4N – Day 1

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Day 1: Tokyo （東京）→ Echigo Yuzawa （越後湯沢）

Our first stop is Echigo Yuzawa （越後湯沢）, the first shinkansen stop in Niigata （新潟）on the Toki line. It is famous for Fuji Rock and Ski Resorts such as Naeba. Toki is a rare bird found in Sado Island.

To get there, head to Tokyo（東京） Station. If you had bought the JR Pass online, you will have to exchange your online ticket for the JR Pass at the designated offices. We went to the JR East Travel Service Center near the Marunouchi North Exit 丸の内北口. Given there were a lot of tourists, JR opened up two offices when we were there, so look out for the shorter queue. At the office, you will need to determine which days to cover. We got the JR East Pass for 5 Days. It nicely covered our 5 day-4 night trip in Niigata.

I recommend to get the reserved seat tickets for all your subsequent train rides at one go. There are still options for you at the other Shinkansen stations, but it will be less worrying if you get it at this point.

It was a Thursday when we travelled to Niigata, so there were two trains that we could take:

  • Departs 10:16AM Jōetsu Shinkansen Toki 315 to Niigata （新潟）、reach 11:31AM – 1 hr 15 min (5 stops)
  • Departs 11:40AM Jōetsu Shinkansen Toki 319 to Niigata （新潟）、reach 12:58PM – 1 hr 18 min (5 stops)

10:00AM We decided to grab Ramen at the Ramen Street in Tokyo Station. Tokyo Dried Sardines Ramen Gyoku 東京煮干しらーめん玉東京駅店 had a unique fish-based broth. If you are earlier or have more time, you can have ramen as early as 8:30 AM or consider other ramen options which had long queues.

11:10AM We did not reserve seats online beforehand, so we could only use the unreserved seats. As Tokyo is the first station for the Toki line, we managed to secure seats by queuing early at the platform. Take note of the queue lines – one is for the next train, and one is for the subsequent train. Even though we reached 30 minutes before the train departure time, there was already a queue. I recommend heading to car 2 where there are more seats compared to car 1.

11:40AM Riding the train to Echigo Yuzawa station

12:58PM After reaching Echigo Yuzawa train station, our first stop is the Kiyotsu Gorge. As there was only 12 minutes before the bus departs, we used the luggage lockers to hold our luggages before heading to the Kiyotsu Gorge. Note that there are not many buses, only one in the morning and 3 in the afternoon at 2 hour intervals (as of October 2023).

1:10PM Based on the bus schedule, we managed to catch the 1:10PM bus from 越後湯沢駅　東口. Look out for the East exit and walk towards the bus terminal – Lane 4, bus number 5 towards 桃宮野原　Momomiyanohara. On the timetable, the bus times are on the right most column. It costs 500 yen to get to Kiyotsu Gorge 清津峡. When boarding the bus, you might not need to take a ticket. This means that you will pay the amount indicated on the bus board where there is no number indicated. This bus did not accept Suica or Pasmo, but you can combine your payment and pay with notes if you do not have sufficient change.

1:34PM After arriving at the Kiyotsu Gorge stop, we embarked on a leisure 20-30 minute stroll. Of course, being avid photographers, we just had to stop every few steps to capture the breathtaking scenery. The autumn colours were just starting to show, like they were putting on a slow fashion show. It seemed like we were a tad early for the grand spectacle by about 1-2 weeks, but hey, at least we didn’t have to fight for tickets! Pro tip: If you’re planning a visit during the peak season, make sure to secure entrance tickets in advance to avoid disappointment.

Address新潟県十日町市小出癸2119-2
DirectionsBus from Echigoyuzawa Station (East Exit) bound for Morimiyanohara Iriguchi Station.
Alight at Kiyotsukyo Iriguchi Station
Car ParkAvailable
Opening Times8:30AM to 4:30PM(March-November)
9:00AM to 3:30PM(in winter)
Websitehttps://nakasato-kiyotsu.com/

Kiyotsu Gorge 清津峡

Kiyotsu Gorge, also known as the Tunnel of Light, is a remarkable attraction located in Niigata, Japan. Designed by MAD architects, the Gorge is truly a sight and visual experience. It is almost like an art exhibition in itself. The gorge features a long tunnel that creates a surreal atmosphere with its play of light and shadows. At the end of the tunnel, there is a reflective water area where you can capture stunning photos.

It costs 1000 yen to enter the tunnel. Depending on the crowd, I suggest going right to the end where you can take photos in the tunnel over the reflective water. When we got in, there was already a short queue but by the time we were done, there were a lot more tour groups queuing to take pictures. Big poses are recommended.

After exploring tunnel, we had some ice cream at the shop right at the entrance of the tunnel, and had a foot bath. Aim for the 3:57 PM bus ride back to Yuzawa（湯沢駅）. Otherwise, the last bus will come at 5:57PM.

Be careful if you decide to wait for the last bus. There might be scams and people targeting Japanese speaking tourists when the night falls.

3:57PM Bus from Kiyotsu Gorge to Yuzawa（湯沢駅）. Bus ride costs 500 yen. There was no option to use Suica or Pasmo this trip, so prepare some cash on hand. For the return, remember to take a ticket when boarding. The number will determine how much you pay! If you lose it, you will have to pay the full price.

Ryokan Shosenkaku Kagetsu 松泉閣　花月

5PM First day ended with us checking into our Ryokan Shosenkaku Kagetsu 松泉閣　花月, 5mins from Echigo Yuzawa station. Beautiful onsen ryokan, with very friendly staff. The ryokan has a bit of rustic feel, very clean and comfortable. Loved the smell of the tatami and enjoyed the sight of koi swimming in a stream as we walked into the ryokan. We had dinner at the ryokan that night and it was a wonderful spread from the lands of Niigata.

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Itinerary

  • 10:00AM Brunch at Ramen Street in Tokyo Station
  • 11:40AM Train to Echigo Yuzawa on Joetsu Shinkansen Toki 319
  • 12:58PM Arrive at Echigo Yuzawa Station
  • 1:10PM Bus to Kiyotsu Gorge Entrance stop　(清津峡入口 Kiyotsu kai iriguchi)
  • 1:34PM Reach Kiyotsu Gorge Entrance stop
  • 2:00PM Reach Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel of Light
  • 3:30PM Leave Kiyotsu Gorge
  • 3:57PM Bus from Kiyotsu Gorge to Yuzawa（湯沢駅）
  • 4:25PM Reach Echigo Yuzawa Station
  • 5PM Dinner and onsen at ryokan

Meatman

ningzheavenLeave a comment

Address: 4-8-8 Roppongi, Minato Tokyo Prefecture (Roppongi station exit 6)

Tel:+81-3-3479-9818

Pricing: About 3000 yen for me

Definitely my favorite. A place I revisit each time I’m back in Japan. I love yakitori but this place it is more than yakitori. I regard it as having more kushiyaki. There’s chicken, pork, beef and vegetables. I love it for the atmosphere, a small place in Roppongi with great food and vibe. The secret is I fell in love with the place many years back as they were playing final fantasy as their background music. I don’t think they do that now.

The menu changed over the years, so I will always go for some of the specials, along with the various bacon rolls. Oh and the umeshu. Always call and make a reservation first. It’s fairly crowded even on weekdays. Pictures from my latest trip in April 2019 are below!

Comment: Many friends have asked me for food recommendations in Tokyo. Unfortunately, I never quite kept a list that was easily shareable. (And I was not quite the food connoisseur.) So I’ve decided to use my website as a place to keep track of my favourite places.