Tag: matsumoto

Trail 4: A Rest Day in Matsumoto and Journey to Karuizawa

Ning Sung LeeLeave a comment

Day 4 Summary:
8:30 AM: Breakfast at Abe Coffee
10:00 AM: Reach Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園 for autumn colours on foot
11:00 AM: Explore Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り
11:30 AM: Reach Matsumoto Castle 松本城 on foot
12:15 PM: Lunch at Sobaya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋
1:15 PM: Return to hotel for luggage,
2:06 PM: Depart Matsumoto Station 松本 via Shinano to Nagano 長野
3:25 PM: Depart Nagano Station 長野 via Asama 622 to Karuizawa 軽井沢
4:30 PM: Arrive at Karuizawa, stock up provisions at Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢
Evening: Check-in at Hotel Tsuruya and dinner at Sujyu Masayuki

After three consecutive days of hiking the Nakasendo through the Kiso Valley, Day 4 was a welcome rest day—a chance to let our tired legs recover while exploring Matsumoto’s cultural treasures before continuing our journey to the next section of the Nakasendo in Karuizawa. While Matsumoto itself is not part of the historic Nakasendo trail, this castle town served as the perfect stopover point between the Kiso Valley post towns we’d been hiking and the challenging Usui Toge Pass section that awaited us. With no mountains to climb today, we could finally walk at a leisurely pace and enjoy urban sightseeing without the weight of our hiking packs.

8:30 AM: We started the morning with a relaxed breakfast at Abe Coffee, a cozy café near our hotel. It was a small, quaint coffee shop with quality coffee and breakfast sets.

珈琲美学 アベ Abe Bigaku Coffee
Japan, 〒390-0815 Nagano, Matsumoto, Fukashi, 1 Chome−2−8 NOVAビル
Local coffee and breakfast

10:00 AM: Our first stop was Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園, a beautiful public park that showcases Matsumoto’s autumn colours. The park’s expansive grounds featured stunning fall foliage—brilliant reds, oranges, and golds. The historic Western-style school buildings on the park grounds added architectural interest, creating a peaceful blend of nature and history. It was the perfect gentle start to our sightseeing day.

あがたの森公園 (Agatanomori Park)
〒390-0812 長野県松本市県3丁目1-1
3 Chome-1-1 Agata, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0812, Japan
Beautiful autumn colours and historic school buildings

As we walked from the park toward Matsumoto Castle, we discovered one of the city’s unique treasures—its natural spring water wells. Matsumoto sits atop a subterranean aquifer that has provided fresh mountain water to the city since the Edo period. Throughout the town, there are around 20 public wells where locals and visitors alike can freely drink the crisp, cold spring water that bubbles up from deep underground.

En route to the castle, we came across the Hinode no Ido Well 日の出の井戸, one of many wells marked on the tourist maps distributed by the city. We stopped to try the water, using the communal ladle to scoop the crystal-clear spring water. It was refreshingly cold and delicious. These public wells are maintained by Matsumoto City and have been in continuous use for centuries. The spring water tradition is so integral to Matsumoto’s identity that the city is often called “the City of Spring Water.

11:00 AM: As we walked toward Matsumoto Castle 松本城, we got delightfully distracted along the way! The charming shopping streets leading to the castle were filled with craft shops, cafes, and local boutiques that demanded exploration. We wandered through Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り, a beautifully preserved merchant district with traditional white-walled kura storehouses converted into shops and galleries.

It was here, completely spontaneously, that I found a small ceramics shop run by a local craftsman. As someone who collects cups from my travels, I could not resist browsing his work. I purchased a beautiful handmade ceramic cup—a perfect memento of Matsumoto.

11:30 AM: We finally reached Matsumoto Castle. It has a striking black exterior, earning it the nickname “Crow Castle.” The castle’s elegant five-tiered keep is one of Japan’s twelve original surviving castles, dating back to the late 16th century.

松本城 (Matsumoto Castle)
〒390-0873 長野県松本市丸の内4-1
4-1 Marunouchi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0873, Japan
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
One of Japan’s twelve original castles

12:15 PM: With train schedules to keep, we needed to squeeze in lunch before our departure. We chose Soba ya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋, a well-regarded soba restaurant in Matsumoto. Their specialty was soba paired with tempura, and the combination was excellent—the buckwheat noodles had that perfect texture, and the tempura was light and crispy. It was a satisfying meal that reminded us once again how consistently good the soba had been throughout our journey along the Nakasendo.

蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋 (Soba ya Kamakuraya)
Matsumoto, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Specialty soba and tempura

2:06 PM: From Matsumoto Station 松本, we boarded the Shinano limited express bound for Nagano 長野. At Nagano Station 長野, we transferred to the Asama 622 Shinkansen—a quick, efficient ride that would take us to Karuizawa 軽井沢 in under an hour. We were now traveling to Karuizawa, which marked the eastern end of the Nakasendo trail and would be the starting point for our final hiking day.

4:30 PM: Karuizawa immediately felt different from anywhere else we had visited on this trip. This mountain resort town at 1,000 meters elevation has a distinctly Western atmosphere—a legacy of its history as a popular summer retreat for foreign missionaries and diplomats in the late 19th century.

Our first priority was food and provisions. Tomorrow would bring our final and most challenging Nakasendo hike—from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠 and on to Yokokawa 横川. The Usui Toge Pass was one of the three most difficult passes on the historic Nakasendo, notorious during the Edo period for its steepness and remoteness. We needed to stock up on food for both tonight’s dinner prep and tomorrow’s long hike.

We made our way to Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢, the historic shopping street that forms the heart of the town’s original resort area. The street was lined with bakeries, grocery stores, and specialty food shops. We gathered bread, snacks, and fresh fruit—essential fuel for what we anticipated would be a demanding day. Note that the shops close at sundown, so it is important to quickly grab what you need!

Evening: We checked into Hotel Tsuruya 旧軽井沢ホテル, a wonderful traditional ryokan that perfectly captured Karuizawa’s unique character—Japanese hospitality with that subtle Western influence that defines this resort town. Our room featured both Western beds and traditional futon options.

What made our stay at Tsuruya truly invaluable was meeting the ryokan owner. When we mentioned our planned hike to Usui Toge the next day, he showed us a YouTube video he had personally filmed of the exact trail we would be taking! This was incredibly fortunate—the route from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass and down to Yokokawa is one of the most remote sections of the Nakasendo. Unlike our previous trail days, this route had no maps available! His video would become our primary navigation tool for the following day’s adventure.

旧軽井沢ホテル (Hotel Tsuruya)
〒389-0102 長野県北佐久郡軽井沢町旧軽井沢６７８
678 Kyu-Karuizawa, Karuizawa, Kitasaku District, Nagano 389-0102, Japan
http://www.tsuruyaryokan.jp/
Traditional ryokan with Western influences

For dinner, we walked to Sujyu Masayuki, a fusion restaurant that blended Japanese and Western culinary influences—perfectly fitting for Karuizawa’s hybrid cultural identity. The meal was creative and delicious, providing comfort food we craved after days of hiking.

Sujyu Masayuki
Karuizawa, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Fusion cuisine

Day 4 covered approximately 17,085 steps of urban exploration rather than mountain trails—a welcome change of pace that allowed our hiking-weary bodies to recover while still experiencing the rich cultural heritage of Matsumoto and the unique atmosphere of Karuizawa. The spontaneous encounters (like the ceramic craftsman), the stunning Matsumoto Castle, the refreshing discovery of Matsumoto’s spring water wells, the successful shopping, and especially the fortuitous meeting with the Tsuruya owner all reinforced that some of travel’s best moments come from flexibility and openness to unexpected experiences.

Tomorrow would bring our most remote and challenging hike yet—the legendary Usui Toge Pass. During the Edo period, this pass was so notoriously difficult that it was said “Kiso no Kakehashi, Ota no Watashi, and Usui Pass are the only ones to be crossed.” The climb from Karuizawa would be relatively gentle (only 200 meters elevation gain), but the descent on the Yokokawa side would be a steep 800-meter drop. Armed with the ryokan owner’s homemade trail videos, packed provisions, and four days of accumulated hiking experience, we were as ready as we could be for this final mountain crossing. After completing this section, we planned to continue our journey to the famous hot spring town of Kusatsu Onsen for a well-deserved soak.

Note: This trip was made in November 2024.

Trail 3: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – From Yabuhara to Narai-juku via Torii Toge Pass

ningzheavenLeave a comment

Day 3 Summary:
7:00 AM: Breakfast at Kiso Mikawaya
8:55 AM: Depart Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島 via Chuo Line
9:11 AM: Arrive at Yabuhara Station 藪原
9:11 AM – 12:15 PM: Hike from Yabuhara to Narai-juku 奈良井宿 via Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠 (3hr, 9.3km)
1:00 PM: Explore Narai-juku and late lunch at Kiso Tanakaya 木曽田中屋
2:00 PM: 40 min walk to Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢
3:36 PM: Train from Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢 to Matsumoto 松本
4:48 PM: Arrive at Matsumoto
Evening: Dinner at Tsukumo 九十九 Matsumoto

Day 3 of our Nakasendo adventure brought us to what would be the steepest climb yet—the legendary Torii Toge Pass connecting Yabuhara to Narai-juku. After two days of hiking, our legs were feeling the accumulated miles, but the promise of one of Japan’s best-preserved post towns kept our spirits high.

7:00 AM: We started the day with a hearty breakfast at our lodging, Kiso Mikawaya, fueling up for what we knew would be a challenging ascent. The mountain air was crisp and dry—perfect hiking weather.

8:55 AM: From Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島, we boarded the local Chuo Line bound for Yabuhara 藪原. The short 15-minute train ride through the Kiso Valley offered a preview of the mountainous terrain we’d soon be climbing.

The Yabuhara to Narai section via Torii Toge Pass is said to be one of the most historically significant stretches of the entire Nakasendo 中山道 Trail. During the Edo period, this route was notorious for being the most treacherous and difficult section of the 500+ kilometer journey between Kyoto and Edo. Torii Pass, at over 1,000 meters elevation, stands as the highest point along the entire Nakasendo. The pass earned its name from a torii gate constructed under the order of Kiso Yoshimoto 木曾義元 (1475-1504), who prayed there before battle and subsequently built the gate in gratitude for his victory. Because of the challenging terrain of this mountain crossing, the post town of Narai on the other side flourished as weary travelers desperately needed rest and accommodation after conquering the steep ascent and descent. This geographical challenge is said to transform Narai into one of the wealthiest post towns on the Nakasendo, earning it the legendary nickname “Narai of a Thousand Houses” 奈良井の千軒 due to its abundance of inns and guesthouses. Beyond Narai lies Kiso Hirasawa, not a post town for travelers but rather an artisan village that became the heart of Japanese lacquerware production for over 400 years, supplying exquisite crafts that were distributed throughout Japan via the Nakasendo.

9:11 AM: We arrived at Yabuhara Station 藪原, a small mountain village that marks the start of one of the Nakasendo’s most historic—and most demanding—sections. Without much time to explore, we walked through the quiet town streets, following the trail markers that would lead us up and over Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠.

The ascent began almost immediately. Unlike the gentler trails of the previous days, this route wasted no time gaining elevation. The path wound steeply upward through dense forest, and we quickly understood why this section has a reputation among Nakasendo hikers. The climb was relentless but manageable, with the trail well-maintained and clearly marked.

What made this climb truly memorable wasn’t just the physical challenge—it was an unexpected encounter. Along the trail, we met a remarkable group of Japanese seniors, ranging in age from their 60s to 80s, who were tackling this very route. Through brief conversations and shared smiles, we learned they were experienced hikers who had walked not only the Nakasendo multiple times but also international trails like the Camino de Santiago. Their energy, determination, and obvious joy in the mountains were incredibly inspiring. If they could conquer these steep mountain passes with such enthusiasm, we certainly had no excuse to complain about sore legs!

As we climbed higher, the forest transformed around us. Autumn had painted the mountainside in brilliant shades of gold, orange, and red. The rustling of leaves in the breeze created a tranquil soundtrack to our ascent, and we found ourselves stopping frequently. Not just to catch our breath, but to capture the stunning fall colours on camera. The play of sunlight through the canopy created magical lighting conditions that made every turn of the trail photo-worthy.

10:50 AM: Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠 itself is a serene mountain crossing at approximately 1,197 meters elevation. The pass earned its name from the torii gate that once stood here, marking the boundary between domains during the Edo period. Though the climb was steep, it never felt dangerous or exposed—just a steady, determined push upward through beautiful forest. The sense of accomplishment upon reaching the pass was palpable.

We may have inadvertently taken a shortcut with our newfound senior hiking companions, but the route we followed was clearly well-worn by locals who knew the trail intimately. Sometimes the most authentic experiences come from following those who walk these paths regularly rather than strictly adhering to every mapped landmark.

12:15 PM: The descent from Torii Toge 鳥居峠 brought us to Narai-juku 奈良井宿, and we immediately understood why this post town is often called the jewel of the Nakasendo. Stretching nearly one kilometer along the old highway, Narai 奈良井 is remarkably well-preserved, with traditional wooden buildings lining both sides of the street. Unlike the quieter Tsumago or the steep Magome, Narai felt alive with activity—a testament to its accessibility by train, which has kept it thriving as both a historical site and a living community.

The main street was bustling with visitors, and the aroma of grilled foods and fresh soba wafted from numerous restaurants and food stalls. Many establishments had queues stretching out their doors, particularly the popular soba shops. After our strenuous morning hike, we were grateful to secure a table at Kiso Tanakaya 木曽田中屋, a cozy soba restaurant that perfectly embodied the traditional atmosphere of the post town.

木曽田中屋 (Kiso Tanakaya)
〒399-6303 長野県塩尻市奈良井403
403 Narai, Shiojiri, Nagano 399-6303, Japan
Operating Hours: Please check
Traditional soba and local Kiso Valley specialties

The handmade soba was exceptional with just the right texture, served cold with a savoury dipping sauce. After hours of hiking, this simple meal felt like a feast. We took our time, savouring both the food and the warm, rustic ambiance of the restaurant.

After lunch, we wandered through Narai 奈良井’s historic streets, admiring the preserved architecture and browsing the craft shops. The town specialised in lacquerware and woodwork, products for which the Kiso Valley has been famous for centuries. We passed traditional lacquerware boutiques, and tea houses, snacks and ice cream!

2:00 PM: Before catching our train, we made a quick detour to shop in Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢, a town renowned for its traditional lacquerware production. I couldn’t resist purchasing a beautifully crafted lacquerware cup as a memento of our journey—a practical souvenir that would remind us daily of the Nakasendo trail.

4:01 PM: From Kiso Hirasawa Station 木曽平沢, we boarded the Chuo Line to Matsumoto 松本. While Magome charmed with its steep, storybook streets and Tsumago impressed with its quiet authenticity, Narai balanced preservation with vitality. It’s a place worth revisiting—perhaps next time arriving by train rather than on foot, to explore it with fresh legs!

4:48 PM: We arrived at Matsumoto Station 松本 and walked the short six minutes to our accommodation for the night.

Tabino Hotel lit Matsumoto タビノホテルリット松本
〒390-0815 長野県松本市深志1丁目4-5
1 Chome-4-5 Fukashi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0815, Japan
https://matsumoto.tabino-hotel.jp/

The hotel lived up to its name—it was indeed pretty lit!

Evening: For dinner, we had a tough time looking for places to go as everywhere was full! We managed to get a table at Tsukumo 九十九, a local izakaya-style restaurant in Matsumoto. There were very friendly staff and great food. Over plates of regional dishes and cold beer, we recounted the day’s adventures—the inspiring senior hikers, the steep but beautiful Torii Toge, and the vibrant streets of Narai. The beer tasted particularly good after climbing over 28,000 steps and 9.3 kilometers, including what was definitely the steepest ascent we’d faced on the Nakasendo so far.

九十九 (Tsukumo)
松本市内
Matsumoto, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認（夕食は8:30PMまでオーダー可能）
Local Matsumoto cuisine and drinks

Exhausted but satisfied, we returned to our hotel for a well-deserved rest. Tomorrow would bring new sections of the trail, but tonight was for recovery.

Day 3 covered approximately 9.3 kilometers and 28,613 steps, with elevation gain over Torii Toge Pass. By this point in our journey, we were definitely building stamina, though our bodies were undeniably sore from the accumulated miles. The steepness of today’s trail was more challenging than Days 1 or 2, but the manageable duration (just 3 hours of hiking) made it feel achievable. The autumn colours, inspiring encounters with experienced hikers, and the reward of reaching Narai-juku made every upward step worthwhile. Note: Trip was made in November 2024.

For future hikers: Narai-juku is absolutely worth visiting, whether you arrive on foot via the Nakasendo or by train. The town offers the perfect blend of historical atmosphere and modern accessibility. The soba restaurants are excellent but popular—expect queues during peak times! Matsumoto also have great autumn colours and day hikes to explore!