Tag: travel

Trail 5: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – Conquering Usui Toge Pass from Karuizawa to Yokokawa

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Day 5 Summary:
8:45 AM: Early departure from Hotel Tsuruya, hike from Karuizawa 軽井沢 to Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠 (2hr 15min)
11:00 AM: Reach Usui Toge Pass summit and shrine
11:30 AM: Begin descent into Gunma Prefecture
1:00 PM: Packed lunch in the mountain forest
3:30 PM – 5:00 PM: Navigate the steep, rocky final descent to Yokokawa
5:21 PM: Train from Yokokawa Station 横川 to Takasaki Station 高崎
5:53 PM: Arrive at Takasaki Station, walk to accommodation
Evening: Settle into Rakuten STAY HOUSE and dinner with camp provisions

Day 5 brought us to what I consider the most challenging and remote section of the entire Nakasendo Trail—the legendary Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠. This mountain crossing between Nagano and Gunma Prefectures was one of the three most notorious passes on the historic route, so difficult that an Edo-period saying warned: “Kiso no Kakehashi, Ota no Watashi, and Usui Pass are the only ones to be crossed.” After four days of hiking that had gradually built our stamina and confidence, we were as ready as we would ever be to tackle this final mountain challenge.

8:45 AM: We began Day 5 with a rushed but hearty Japanese and Western-style buffet breakfast at Hotel Tsuruya. Unlike our previous leisurely mornings, we had no time to linger—Usui Toge demanded an early start. This section was remote, unmarked in places, and would take significantly longer than the distance suggested. Armed with his homemade YouTube video downloaded to our phones, our packed provisions from Old Karuizawa, and four days of accumulated hiking experience, we set off into the cool morning air.

The trail departing Karuizawa was blissfully beautiful—a gentle, almost meditative start. The autumn morning light filtering through the canopy in golden shafts. The elevation gain from Karuizawa was gradual, only about 200 meters over several kilometers, making for a pleasant upward stroll.

11:00 AM: We reached the summit of Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠, marked by a traditional shrine that has stood watch over this mountain crossing for centuries. At approximately 1,200 meters elevation, the pass offers spectacular multi-mountain views that stretch across both Nagano and Gunma Prefectures. The panorama was genuinely picturesque—layer upon layer of mountain ridges receding into the misty distance, painted in the muted autumn colours of late November. There was also a post that marks the border between Nagano and Gunma Prefecture.

碓氷峠熊野神社 (Usui Toge Kumano Shrine)
Border of Karuizawa, Nagano and Annaka, Gunma
Historic shrine marking the Usui Toge Pass summit

We paused at the shrine to catch our breath, take photos, and for me, mentally prepare for what came next. The challenging part of Usui Toge isn’t the climb up—it’s the descent down. From this summit, we faced an 800-meter elevation drop down the Gunma Prefecture side.

11:30 AM: Crossing the prefecture border, we immediately noticed a change. The well-maintained, clearly marked trails of Nagano Prefecture gave way to something far more primitive. Here in Gunma, trail markers became sparse—just occasional weathered signs in Japanese that were difficult to read and harder to interpret. This was where the ryokan owner’s video became absolutely critical. We found ourselves stopping repeatedly to compare our surroundings to the footage on our phones, using distinctive trees, rock formations, and trail junctions to confirm we were still on the correct path.

Unlike our previous Nakasendo sections where we’d occasionally encounter other hikers or pass through villages, this stretch was remarkably isolated. We saw hardly anyone—perhaps one or two distant figures the entire day. The forest felt ancient and untouched.

1:00 PM: Deep in the mountain forest, surrounded by nothing but trees and the sound of rustling leaves, we stopped for our packed lunch. We’d brought provisions from Karuizawa—bread, fruits, and snacks—knowing there would be absolutely no facilities or food options along this route. Sitting on a fallen log in the middle of the woods, with no buildings, no signs of civilisation, and no other people in sight, we appreciated the complete remoteness of this historic trail. The dry weather held, for which we were deeply grateful—rain would have made the descent treacherous.

3:30 PM: The descent began in earnest, and we quickly understood why Usui Toge has its fearsome reputation. The trail became increasingly steep and rocky as we dropped elevation. The final kilometer was particularly brutal—a nearly vertical scramble down loose rocks and exposed roots that demanded constant attention and careful foot placement.

In a moment of questionable judgment, exhausted by the relentless downward pitch, I sat down thinking I could slide-descend in a controlled manner. This was immediately revealed to be a not so great idea—the weight of my full hiking pack made it hard to stand back up on the rocky slope.

By this point, we were focused entirely on the trail itself rather than the scenery. While autumn foliage still surrounded us, I barely noticed—every bit of attention was devoted to finding secure footholds and avoiding a tumble down the mountainside.

5:00 PM: We finally emerged from the forest trail and walked towards Yokokawa 横川, a small railway town that marks the eastern terminus of this Nakasendo section. The relief of reaching flat ground after that punishing descent was immense. We had been hiking for over eight hours with minimal breaks, and exhaustion was setting in. Yokokawa itself offered little—by the time we arrived, it was sundown.

We had hoped to catch the 4:00 PM train to Takasaki, but our later-than-planned arrival meant we’d missed it. At Yokokawa Station, we collapsed onto benches, and we were too tired to do much beyond rest our aching legs and feet. The small station offered shelter and nice cold drinks from the vending machine as we waited in the gathering dusk.

5:21 PM: The Shin-Etsu Line train arrived, and we gratefully boarded for Takasaki 高崎. The 30-minute journey felt like luxury after the day’s exertion—sitting, not moving, letting the train do the work. And this marked the end of our 5 day hiking.

5:53 PM: We arrived at Takasaki Station in full darkness. Rather than exploring this city, we simply wanted to reach our accommodation and rest. We walked from the station to our lodging, the Rakuten STAY HOUSE, located in a quiet residential neighbourhood.

Rakuten STAY HOUSE x WILL STYLE Takasaki 101
〒370-0846 群馬県高崎市下和田町1丁目11-10
1 Chome-11-10 Shimowadamachi, Takasaki, Gunma 370-0846, Japan

Evening: The accommodation was a standalone three-room, double-storey house that offered a glimpse into what a typical Japanese family home might look like. With multiple bedrooms, a full kitchen, and living spaces, it felt spacious and homey. Having this private space to spread out and decompress was exactly what we needed.

Too exhausted to venture out for dinner in an unfamiliar city, we prepared a simple meal using camp provisions we’d brought along. We’d actually packed these specifically to try them out—practice for future possible hiking trips. It was basic but satisfying, and honestly, after conquering Usui Toge, even simple food tasted like a feast.

Day 5 had taken approximately 10 hours from hotel departure to arrival at our Takasaki accommodation. The ryokan owner’s video was critical—without it, we would have struggled significantly in the poorly marked Gunma sections. We had covered roughly 14 kilometers with a 1-kilometer elevation drop, accumulating 33,037 steps—our highest count of the entire journey. More importantly, we had successfully navigated one of the Nakasendo’s most challenging and historically significant sections.

This was my first multi-day hiking experience, and completing it is a major accomplishment! Five days, four mountain passes, countless steps, and one unforgettable journey through Japan’s historic mountain interior. The Nakasendo Trail is a good trail for a beginner like me and also rewarded us with stunning natural beauty, and profound historical connections.

Tomorrow, we would leave the Nakasendo and continue our journey to Kusatsu Onsen 草津温泉, one of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns. After five days of mountain hiking, onsen soaking is rewarding! The hiking portion of our adventure was complete, but the journey continued with relaxation, good food, and well-deserved rest.

Note: This trip was made in November 2024.

Trail 4: A Rest Day in Matsumoto and Journey to Karuizawa

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Day 4 Summary:
8:30 AM: Breakfast at Abe Coffee
10:00 AM: Reach Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園 for autumn colours on foot
11:00 AM: Explore Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り
11:30 AM: Reach Matsumoto Castle 松本城 on foot
12:15 PM: Lunch at Sobaya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋
1:15 PM: Return to hotel for luggage,
2:06 PM: Depart Matsumoto Station 松本 via Shinano to Nagano 長野
3:25 PM: Depart Nagano Station 長野 via Asama 622 to Karuizawa 軽井沢
4:30 PM: Arrive at Karuizawa, stock up provisions at Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢
Evening: Check-in at Hotel Tsuruya and dinner at Sujyu Masayuki

After three consecutive days of hiking the Nakasendo through the Kiso Valley, Day 4 was a welcome rest day—a chance to let our tired legs recover while exploring Matsumoto’s cultural treasures before continuing our journey to the next section of the Nakasendo in Karuizawa. While Matsumoto itself is not part of the historic Nakasendo trail, this castle town served as the perfect stopover point between the Kiso Valley post towns we’d been hiking and the challenging Usui Toge Pass section that awaited us. With no mountains to climb today, we could finally walk at a leisurely pace and enjoy urban sightseeing without the weight of our hiking packs.

8:30 AM: We started the morning with a relaxed breakfast at Abe Coffee, a cozy café near our hotel. It was a small, quaint coffee shop with quality coffee and breakfast sets.

珈琲美学 アベ Abe Bigaku Coffee
Japan, 〒390-0815 Nagano, Matsumoto, Fukashi, 1 Chome−2−8 NOVAビル
Local coffee and breakfast

10:00 AM: Our first stop was Agatanomori Park あがたの森公園, a beautiful public park that showcases Matsumoto’s autumn colours. The park’s expansive grounds featured stunning fall foliage—brilliant reds, oranges, and golds. The historic Western-style school buildings on the park grounds added architectural interest, creating a peaceful blend of nature and history. It was the perfect gentle start to our sightseeing day.

あがたの森公園 (Agatanomori Park)
〒390-0812 長野県松本市県3丁目1-1
3 Chome-1-1 Agata, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0812, Japan
Beautiful autumn colours and historic school buildings

As we walked from the park toward Matsumoto Castle, we discovered one of the city’s unique treasures—its natural spring water wells. Matsumoto sits atop a subterranean aquifer that has provided fresh mountain water to the city since the Edo period. Throughout the town, there are around 20 public wells where locals and visitors alike can freely drink the crisp, cold spring water that bubbles up from deep underground.

En route to the castle, we came across the Hinode no Ido Well 日の出の井戸, one of many wells marked on the tourist maps distributed by the city. We stopped to try the water, using the communal ladle to scoop the crystal-clear spring water. It was refreshingly cold and delicious. These public wells are maintained by Matsumoto City and have been in continuous use for centuries. The spring water tradition is so integral to Matsumoto’s identity that the city is often called “the City of Spring Water.

11:00 AM: As we walked toward Matsumoto Castle 松本城, we got delightfully distracted along the way! The charming shopping streets leading to the castle were filled with craft shops, cafes, and local boutiques that demanded exploration. We wandered through Nakamachi Shopping Street 中町通り, a beautifully preserved merchant district with traditional white-walled kura storehouses converted into shops and galleries.

It was here, completely spontaneously, that I found a small ceramics shop run by a local craftsman. As someone who collects cups from my travels, I could not resist browsing his work. I purchased a beautiful handmade ceramic cup—a perfect memento of Matsumoto.

11:30 AM: We finally reached Matsumoto Castle. It has a striking black exterior, earning it the nickname “Crow Castle.” The castle’s elegant five-tiered keep is one of Japan’s twelve original surviving castles, dating back to the late 16th century.

松本城 (Matsumoto Castle)
〒390-0873 長野県松本市丸の内4-1
4-1 Marunouchi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0873, Japan
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
One of Japan’s twelve original castles

12:15 PM: With train schedules to keep, we needed to squeeze in lunch before our departure. We chose Soba ya Kamakuraya 蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋, a well-regarded soba restaurant in Matsumoto. Their specialty was soba paired with tempura, and the combination was excellent—the buckwheat noodles had that perfect texture, and the tempura was light and crispy. It was a satisfying meal that reminded us once again how consistently good the soba had been throughout our journey along the Nakasendo.

蕎麦屋 鎌倉屋 (Soba ya Kamakuraya)
Matsumoto, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Specialty soba and tempura

2:06 PM: From Matsumoto Station 松本, we boarded the Shinano limited express bound for Nagano 長野. At Nagano Station 長野, we transferred to the Asama 622 Shinkansen—a quick, efficient ride that would take us to Karuizawa 軽井沢 in under an hour. We were now traveling to Karuizawa, which marked the eastern end of the Nakasendo trail and would be the starting point for our final hiking day.

4:30 PM: Karuizawa immediately felt different from anywhere else we had visited on this trip. This mountain resort town at 1,000 meters elevation has a distinctly Western atmosphere—a legacy of its history as a popular summer retreat for foreign missionaries and diplomats in the late 19th century.

Our first priority was food and provisions. Tomorrow would bring our final and most challenging Nakasendo hike—from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass 碓氷峠 and on to Yokokawa 横川. The Usui Toge Pass was one of the three most difficult passes on the historic Nakasendo, notorious during the Edo period for its steepness and remoteness. We needed to stock up on food for both tonight’s dinner prep and tomorrow’s long hike.

We made our way to Old Karuizawa 旧軽井沢, the historic shopping street that forms the heart of the town’s original resort area. The street was lined with bakeries, grocery stores, and specialty food shops. We gathered bread, snacks, and fresh fruit—essential fuel for what we anticipated would be a demanding day. Note that the shops close at sundown, so it is important to quickly grab what you need!

Evening: We checked into Hotel Tsuruya 旧軽井沢ホテル, a wonderful traditional ryokan that perfectly captured Karuizawa’s unique character—Japanese hospitality with that subtle Western influence that defines this resort town. Our room featured both Western beds and traditional futon options.

What made our stay at Tsuruya truly invaluable was meeting the ryokan owner. When we mentioned our planned hike to Usui Toge the next day, he showed us a YouTube video he had personally filmed of the exact trail we would be taking! This was incredibly fortunate—the route from Karuizawa to Usui Toge Pass and down to Yokokawa is one of the most remote sections of the Nakasendo. Unlike our previous trail days, this route had no maps available! His video would become our primary navigation tool for the following day’s adventure.

旧軽井沢ホテル (Hotel Tsuruya)
〒389-0102 長野県北佐久郡軽井沢町旧軽井沢６７８
678 Kyu-Karuizawa, Karuizawa, Kitasaku District, Nagano 389-0102, Japan
http://www.tsuruyaryokan.jp/
Traditional ryokan with Western influences

For dinner, we walked to Sujyu Masayuki, a fusion restaurant that blended Japanese and Western culinary influences—perfectly fitting for Karuizawa’s hybrid cultural identity. The meal was creative and delicious, providing comfort food we craved after days of hiking.

Sujyu Masayuki
Karuizawa, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Fusion cuisine

Day 4 covered approximately 17,085 steps of urban exploration rather than mountain trails—a welcome change of pace that allowed our hiking-weary bodies to recover while still experiencing the rich cultural heritage of Matsumoto and the unique atmosphere of Karuizawa. The spontaneous encounters (like the ceramic craftsman), the stunning Matsumoto Castle, the refreshing discovery of Matsumoto’s spring water wells, the successful shopping, and especially the fortuitous meeting with the Tsuruya owner all reinforced that some of travel’s best moments come from flexibility and openness to unexpected experiences.

Tomorrow would bring our most remote and challenging hike yet—the legendary Usui Toge Pass. During the Edo period, this pass was so notoriously difficult that it was said “Kiso no Kakehashi, Ota no Watashi, and Usui Pass are the only ones to be crossed.” The climb from Karuizawa would be relatively gentle (only 200 meters elevation gain), but the descent on the Yokokawa side would be a steep 800-meter drop. Armed with the ryokan owner’s homemade trail videos, packed provisions, and four days of accumulated hiking experience, we were as ready as we could be for this final mountain crossing. After completing this section, we planned to continue our journey to the famous hot spring town of Kusatsu Onsen for a well-deserved soak.

Note: This trip was made in November 2024.

Trail 3: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – From Yabuhara to Narai-juku via Torii Toge Pass

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Day 3 Summary:
7:00 AM: Breakfast at Kiso Mikawaya
8:55 AM: Depart Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島 via Chuo Line
9:11 AM: Arrive at Yabuhara Station 藪原
9:11 AM – 12:15 PM: Hike from Yabuhara to Narai-juku 奈良井宿 via Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠 (3hr, 9.3km)
1:00 PM: Explore Narai-juku and late lunch at Kiso Tanakaya 木曽田中屋
2:00 PM: 40 min walk to Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢
3:36 PM: Train from Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢 to Matsumoto 松本
4:48 PM: Arrive at Matsumoto
Evening: Dinner at Tsukumo 九十九 Matsumoto

Day 3 of our Nakasendo adventure brought us to what would be the steepest climb yet—the legendary Torii Toge Pass connecting Yabuhara to Narai-juku. After two days of hiking, our legs were feeling the accumulated miles, but the promise of one of Japan’s best-preserved post towns kept our spirits high.

7:00 AM: We started the day with a hearty breakfast at our lodging, Kiso Mikawaya, fueling up for what we knew would be a challenging ascent. The mountain air was crisp and dry—perfect hiking weather.

8:55 AM: From Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島, we boarded the local Chuo Line bound for Yabuhara 藪原. The short 15-minute train ride through the Kiso Valley offered a preview of the mountainous terrain we’d soon be climbing.

The Yabuhara to Narai section via Torii Toge Pass is said to be one of the most historically significant stretches of the entire Nakasendo 中山道 Trail. During the Edo period, this route was notorious for being the most treacherous and difficult section of the 500+ kilometer journey between Kyoto and Edo. Torii Pass, at over 1,000 meters elevation, stands as the highest point along the entire Nakasendo. The pass earned its name from a torii gate constructed under the order of Kiso Yoshimoto 木曾義元 (1475-1504), who prayed there before battle and subsequently built the gate in gratitude for his victory. Because of the challenging terrain of this mountain crossing, the post town of Narai on the other side flourished as weary travelers desperately needed rest and accommodation after conquering the steep ascent and descent. This geographical challenge is said to transform Narai into one of the wealthiest post towns on the Nakasendo, earning it the legendary nickname “Narai of a Thousand Houses” 奈良井の千軒 due to its abundance of inns and guesthouses. Beyond Narai lies Kiso Hirasawa, not a post town for travelers but rather an artisan village that became the heart of Japanese lacquerware production for over 400 years, supplying exquisite crafts that were distributed throughout Japan via the Nakasendo.

9:11 AM: We arrived at Yabuhara Station 藪原, a small mountain village that marks the start of one of the Nakasendo’s most historic—and most demanding—sections. Without much time to explore, we walked through the quiet town streets, following the trail markers that would lead us up and over Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠.

The ascent began almost immediately. Unlike the gentler trails of the previous days, this route wasted no time gaining elevation. The path wound steeply upward through dense forest, and we quickly understood why this section has a reputation among Nakasendo hikers. The climb was relentless but manageable, with the trail well-maintained and clearly marked.

What made this climb truly memorable wasn’t just the physical challenge—it was an unexpected encounter. Along the trail, we met a remarkable group of Japanese seniors, ranging in age from their 60s to 80s, who were tackling this very route. Through brief conversations and shared smiles, we learned they were experienced hikers who had walked not only the Nakasendo multiple times but also international trails like the Camino de Santiago. Their energy, determination, and obvious joy in the mountains were incredibly inspiring. If they could conquer these steep mountain passes with such enthusiasm, we certainly had no excuse to complain about sore legs!

As we climbed higher, the forest transformed around us. Autumn had painted the mountainside in brilliant shades of gold, orange, and red. The rustling of leaves in the breeze created a tranquil soundtrack to our ascent, and we found ourselves stopping frequently. Not just to catch our breath, but to capture the stunning fall colours on camera. The play of sunlight through the canopy created magical lighting conditions that made every turn of the trail photo-worthy.

10:50 AM: Torii Toge Pass 鳥居峠 itself is a serene mountain crossing at approximately 1,197 meters elevation. The pass earned its name from the torii gate that once stood here, marking the boundary between domains during the Edo period. Though the climb was steep, it never felt dangerous or exposed—just a steady, determined push upward through beautiful forest. The sense of accomplishment upon reaching the pass was palpable.

We may have inadvertently taken a shortcut with our newfound senior hiking companions, but the route we followed was clearly well-worn by locals who knew the trail intimately. Sometimes the most authentic experiences come from following those who walk these paths regularly rather than strictly adhering to every mapped landmark.

12:15 PM: The descent from Torii Toge 鳥居峠 brought us to Narai-juku 奈良井宿, and we immediately understood why this post town is often called the jewel of the Nakasendo. Stretching nearly one kilometer along the old highway, Narai 奈良井 is remarkably well-preserved, with traditional wooden buildings lining both sides of the street. Unlike the quieter Tsumago or the steep Magome, Narai felt alive with activity—a testament to its accessibility by train, which has kept it thriving as both a historical site and a living community.

The main street was bustling with visitors, and the aroma of grilled foods and fresh soba wafted from numerous restaurants and food stalls. Many establishments had queues stretching out their doors, particularly the popular soba shops. After our strenuous morning hike, we were grateful to secure a table at Kiso Tanakaya 木曽田中屋, a cozy soba restaurant that perfectly embodied the traditional atmosphere of the post town.

木曽田中屋 (Kiso Tanakaya)
〒399-6303 長野県塩尻市奈良井403
403 Narai, Shiojiri, Nagano 399-6303, Japan
Operating Hours: Please check
Traditional soba and local Kiso Valley specialties

The handmade soba was exceptional with just the right texture, served cold with a savoury dipping sauce. After hours of hiking, this simple meal felt like a feast. We took our time, savouring both the food and the warm, rustic ambiance of the restaurant.

After lunch, we wandered through Narai 奈良井’s historic streets, admiring the preserved architecture and browsing the craft shops. The town specialised in lacquerware and woodwork, products for which the Kiso Valley has been famous for centuries. We passed traditional lacquerware boutiques, and tea houses, snacks and ice cream!

2:00 PM: Before catching our train, we made a quick detour to shop in Kiso Hirasawa 木曽平沢, a town renowned for its traditional lacquerware production. I couldn’t resist purchasing a beautifully crafted lacquerware cup as a memento of our journey—a practical souvenir that would remind us daily of the Nakasendo trail.

4:01 PM: From Kiso Hirasawa Station 木曽平沢, we boarded the Chuo Line to Matsumoto 松本. While Magome charmed with its steep, storybook streets and Tsumago impressed with its quiet authenticity, Narai balanced preservation with vitality. It’s a place worth revisiting—perhaps next time arriving by train rather than on foot, to explore it with fresh legs!

4:48 PM: We arrived at Matsumoto Station 松本 and walked the short six minutes to our accommodation for the night.

Tabino Hotel lit Matsumoto タビノホテルリット松本
〒390-0815 長野県松本市深志1丁目4-5
1 Chome-4-5 Fukashi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-0815, Japan
https://matsumoto.tabino-hotel.jp/

The hotel lived up to its name—it was indeed pretty lit!

Evening: For dinner, we had a tough time looking for places to go as everywhere was full! We managed to get a table at Tsukumo 九十九, a local izakaya-style restaurant in Matsumoto. There were very friendly staff and great food. Over plates of regional dishes and cold beer, we recounted the day’s adventures—the inspiring senior hikers, the steep but beautiful Torii Toge, and the vibrant streets of Narai. The beer tasted particularly good after climbing over 28,000 steps and 9.3 kilometers, including what was definitely the steepest ascent we’d faced on the Nakasendo so far.

九十九 (Tsukumo)
松本市内
Matsumoto, Nagano
営業時間: 要確認（夕食は8:30PMまでオーダー可能）
Local Matsumoto cuisine and drinks

Exhausted but satisfied, we returned to our hotel for a well-deserved rest. Tomorrow would bring new sections of the trail, but tonight was for recovery.

Day 3 covered approximately 9.3 kilometers and 28,613 steps, with elevation gain over Torii Toge Pass. By this point in our journey, we were definitely building stamina, though our bodies were undeniably sore from the accumulated miles. The steepness of today’s trail was more challenging than Days 1 or 2, but the manageable duration (just 3 hours of hiking) made it feel achievable. The autumn colours, inspiring encounters with experienced hikers, and the reward of reaching Narai-juku made every upward step worthwhile. Note: Trip was made in November 2024.

For future hikers: Narai-juku is absolutely worth visiting, whether you arrive on foot via the Nakasendo or by train. The town offers the perfect blend of historical atmosphere and modern accessibility. The soba restaurants are excellent but popular—expect queues during peak times! Matsumoto also have great autumn colours and day hikes to explore!

Trail 2: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – From Tsumago-juku to Nojiri-juku via Nagiso

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Day 2 Summary:
8:00 AM: Shuttle from Tokonamiso to Tsumago-juku, then hike to Nagiso Station 南木曽駅 (1hr, 3.9km)
9:30 AM: Breakfast at Nagiso Pierrot
11:00 AM: Nagiso to Nojiri-juku 中山道野尻宿 (5.5hr, 15.6km)
5:27 PM: Train from Nojiri 野尻 to Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島駅
6:15 PM: Bus to hotel
Evening: Dinner at Kiso Mikawaya 自由旅クラブ木曽三河家

Day 2 of our Nakasendo adventure was our longest hiking day yet—nearly 20 kilometers of this historic trail. After yesterday’s gentle introduction from Magome to Tsumago, today would test our endurance as we tackled the challenging route to Nojiri-juku.

8:00 AM: We started early with the complimentary shuttle from our ryokan Tokonamiso back to Tsumago-juku. The morning air was crisp, and mist still clung to the mountains as we prepared for what would be our most demanding day on the trail. From Tsumago, we began the steady descent toward Nagiso Station—a relatively easy 3.9-kilometer warm-up that took us through peaceful countryside and traditional villages.

The path from Tsumago winds through small hamlets, offering glimpses of rural Japanese life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. The distant sound of the Kiso River accompanied our footsteps.

09:30 AM: After reaching Nagiso Station, we took time to properly prepare for the long day ahead. We made essential stops for supplies. We visited 蔦屋製菓舗 (Tsutaya Seikaho) for snacks, picking up traditional Japanese sweets and energy-boosting treats that would sustain us throughout the day. At サンショップ・イシカワ (San Shop Ishikawa), we stocked up on water and lunch packs—crucial provisions for what we anticipated would be a long mountain hike with limited food options.

We had a lovely breakfast at Pierrot, a charming rustic café in Nagiso that provided the perfect fuel for our hiking day. The cozy atmosphere and hearty breakfast gave us a slow-paced, relaxed start before tackling what we expected to be our most demanding trail section. After Pierrot, we crossed the Momosuke Bridge 桃介橋 that marked the start of the next part of our trail.

蔦屋製菓舗 (Tsutaya Seikaho)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書東栄町3436-26
3436-26 Reading Toei-Cho, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
電話: 0264-57-2069 TEL: 0264-57-2069
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Traditional sweets and hiking snacks

サンショップ・イシカワ (San Shop Ishikawa)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書
Yomikaki, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Water and lunch pack supplies

Pierrot (Breakfast Café)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書東栄町3592-8
3592-8 Yomikaki Higashi Sakae-Machi, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
電話: 0264-57-2093 TEL: 0264-57-2093
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check

11:00 AM: From Nagiso, the traditional trail to Nojiri-juku should stretch 15.6 kilometers through some of the most isolated sections of the Nakasendo. As we learned that the original hiking route was blocked due to trail conditions from the day before, we had to take the alternative natural route instead of the planned mountain trail. This detour led us along a combination of forest paths and local roads, creating a very different experience from what we had anticipated.

While not the authentic Nakasendo trail we had hoped for, this alternative route offered its own unique insights. A significant portion of our route took us through residential areas and along local roads near people’s houses. Walking through these quiet rural neighborhoods gave us glimpses of everyday Japanese life that tourists rarely see. There were also warning signs about dogs protecting the area from wild animals.

1:00 PM We had a quick break for lunch. Bathing in the sunlight through the trees, and sounds of the river beside us. The highlight of our unexpected detour was discovering a beautiful waterfall Ushigataki Falls 牛が滝 hidden in the forest of Kakizore Gorge 柿其渓谷 —a scenic reward we wouldn’t have encountered on the original trail. The climb to the top of the stairs was quite scary for me! I was glad my friends enjoyed the climb and scenery. These spontaneous discoveries often become the most memorable parts of any journey.

4:30 PM After navigating the alternative route and road sections, we finally arrived at Nojiri-juku, more tired than expected from the unexpected terrain changes. The physical demands of the day came not from mountain climbs but from the extended distance on paved roads, which tested our feet and legs in different ways. Road walking requires different stamina than trail hiking, and we quickly learned to appreciate the cushioning that forest paths provide. Nojiri is quieter, less polished, and genuinely lived-in. With barely any tourists, Nojiri retains the sleepy atmosphere of a forgotten mountain village. We hurried as it was important to catch the right train otherwise we will waste a lot of time.

5:27 PM: From Nojiri, we caught the local train to Kiso-Fukushima Station—a welcome relief after walking nearly 20 kilometers. The short train ride through the Kiso Valley provided beautiful sunset views and gave our aching legs a much-needed rest.

6:15 PM: At Kiso-Fukushima Station, we hopped on the Kaida Kogen bus line (¥200) for the short ride to our accommodation. Even this simple bus journey felt like a luxury after the day’s exertion!

Evening: We settled into Kiso Mikawaya 自由旅クラブ木曽三河家, a traditional mountain lodge that perfectly captured the spirit of our Nakasendo journey. The dinner featured regional specialties that provided the perfect end to our most challenging day.

自由旅クラブ木曽三河家 ホテル (Kiso Mikawaya)
〒397-0001 長野県木曽郡木曽町福島5782
5782 Fukushima, Kiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 397-0001, Japan
電話: 0264-24-3332 TEL: 0264-24-3332
チェックイン: 15:00 チェックアウト: 10:00 Check-in: 3:00 PM Check-out: 10:00 AM
http://kiso-mikawaya.com/

Day 2 covered approximately 20 kilometers, but not the route we had originally planned. While the blocked traditional trail was disappointing, the alternative natural route offered its own rewards—discovering hidden waterfalls, walking through authentic rural neighborhoods, and experiencing the flexibility required for adventure travel. This unexpected detour reminded us that historical routes aren’t always accessible, and sometimes the unplanned paths provide equally valuable experiences.

For hikers considering this route, always check current trail conditions at the tourist information centers, as weather and maintenance can affect accessibility. Having backup route options and flexible expectations are essential for Nakasendo hiking.

Trail 1: Walking the Nakasendo Trail – From Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku

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Summary:

  • 6:00 AM: Depart from Tokyo via Nozomi 1 のぞみ 1
  • 8:50 AM: Arrive at Nakatsugawa 中津川, take a bus to Magome 馬籠宿
  • 11:30 AM: Lunch at Daikokuya Sabo
  • 12:00 PM: Start the hike from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku
  • 3:30 PM: Reach Tsumago-juku, explore before heading to Tokonamiso for the night

In Edo period, there were five designated major roads known as Gokaido 五街道 that served as Japan’s main means of transportation and trade. They are the Tokaido Road 東海道, Koshukaido Road 甲州街道, Oshukaido Road 奥州街道, Nikkokaido Road 日光街道, and Nakasendo Road 中山道. You might have heard of Tokaido, the name used for the major Shinkansen line that runs between Tokyo and Osaka. Unlike Tokaido which runs along the coast line, the Nakasendo wound through Japan’s mountainous inland and connected the old Kyoto to old Edo (modern-day Tokyo).

The Nakasendo stretches approximately 534 kilometers across 69 post towns like Magome and Tsumago, which provided weary travelers with places to rest and resupply. These post towns were vital to trade and communication during the Edo period. Today, the trail offers a glimpse into Japan’s past, preserved for modern travelers to explore.

We took a 5 day trip along the Nakasendo, with 4 days of hike, starting from Tokyo. The first stop is Magome-juku 馬籠宿, one of the post towns on the Nakasendo.

6:00 AM: Our journey on the historic Nakasendo Trail began bright and early at Tokyo Station. We boarded the first outbound train — Nozomi 1 (のぞみ 1)– bound for Nagoya. I love traveling on the Shinkansen, always on time and comfortable. This time, we tried the smartEX app to buy our tickets. You just need the QR code to board the train. No fuss and easy, just remember to get the QR beforehand for everyone if you are traveling in a group to prevent any last min malfunction of your phone!

7:34 AM: We transferred to the Shinano 3 train headed for Nakatsugawa. At the transfer gates, you will need to scan the QR code and insert the tickets for the next train. For this leg, I used a different method to get the tickets.

By 8:50 AM, we were at Nakatsugawa Station 中津川, where a short walk brought me to the bus terminal. For just 570 yen, I hopped on a bus from Nakatsugawa Eki-mae 中津川駅前 to Magome 馬籠, the starting point of my hike. The ride takes about 25 minutes and brings you through Gifu mountains to arrive at Magome juku 馬籠宿.

We arrived at Magome-juku 馬籠宿, a quaint post town straight out of an Edo-era storybook. Once a bustling stop for samurai, merchants, and pilgrims, Magome’s steep incline earned it the nickname as horses often needed to be guided by hand. Its cobblestone streets and wooden buildings have been beautifully restored, allowing visitors to step back in time.

Before beginning the hike, we took time to explore Magome’s charming streets, where local shops offered crafts and regional snacks. At 11:30 AM, we stopped for lunch at Daikokuya Sabo 大黒屋茶房, a cozy tea house serving seasonal soba. The earthy flavours paired perfectly with the crisp mountain air, energising us for the journey ahead.

大黒屋茶房 (Daikokuya Chabo)
〒508-0502 岐阜県中津川市馬籠4255
4255 Magome, Nakatsugawa, Gifu 508-0502, Japan
営業時間: 9:00～16:00 定休日: 不定休
Operating Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM Closed: Irregular holidays
(Please double check location on map before visiting!)

Magome juku map

At 12:00 PM, we set off for Tsumago-juku 妻籠宿. This 8-kilometer section of the Nakasendo Trail is one of the best-preserved, winding through lush forests, rustic villages, and ancient teahouses. The sounds of babbling brooks, chirping birds, and rustling leaves made the hike both tranquil and rejuvenating. Along the way, I passed stone markers and signposts, reminders of the many feet that had trodden this historic path centuries before.

By 3:30 PM, we arrived at Tsumago-juku 妻籠宿, another meticulously preserved post town. Compared to Magome, Tsumago feels quieter and more untouched, as though it has been frozen in time. We wandered through its narrow streets, admiring the traditional architecture and soaking in the serene atmosphere.

Tsumago-juku 妻籠宿 holds immense historical and modern significance as one of Japan’s most successfully preserved post towns. During the Edo period, it served as the 42nd of the 69 post towns along the Nakasendo 中山道, providing crucial rest and resupply services for samurai, merchants, and government officials traveling between Kyoto and Edo. What makes Tsumago truly remarkable today is its modern preservation efforts—since the 1960s, local residents have been meticulously restoring Edo-era buildings to their traditional lattice-wood appearance. The town has implemented strict regulations prohibiting cars on the main street and hiding all modern infrastructure like power lines and telephone cables, creating an authentic time-capsule experience. This dedication to preservation has made Tsumago a model for heritage conservation across Japan and earned it recognition as one of the country’s most atmospheric historical destinations.

At the Tsumago tourist information center, we discovered that our planned route for the next day was blocked due to collapsed boulders—thankfully they provided an alternative path. We also learned about the trail’s stamp collection system and obtained the official Nakasendo 中山道 Trail Completion Certificate (made from local hinoki 檜 cypress wood) for a small fee, which gets stamped at both Magome 馬籠 and Tsumago 妻籠. While we skipped the commemorative walking stick, the certificate made for a perfect souvenir. (This trip was made in November 2024. Remember to check the tourist information center before embarking on your next trail!)

Before leaving, we managed to grab a quick bite at Yamagiri Shokudo やまぎり食堂,, where the hearty local dishes were a perfect end to my visit. The lovely ladies who run the place, gave us a special introduction to the local delights!

やまぎり食堂 (Yamagiri Shokudo)
〒399-5302 長野県南木曽町吾妻2179-1 2179-1
Azuma, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5302, Japan
営業時間: 9:30〜17:00 定休日: 火曜日（冬期変動有り）
Operating Hours: 9:30 AM – 5:00 PM Closed: Tuesdays (winter schedule may vary)
TEL: 0264-57-3134 https://yamagiri3134.web.fc2.com/

As evening approached, we took a shuttle to Tokonamiso 床浪荘, my accommodation for the night. This rustic ryokan offered a peaceful escape, complete with a soothing onsen to ease the day’s exertion.

床浪荘 (Tokonamiso)
〒399-5302 長野県南木曽町吾妻4644-71
4644-71 Azuma, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5302, Japan
Sister hotel onsen available: 6:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Free shuttle service available (Contact the hotel directly to arrange shuttle service to confirm shuttle times and pickup point. For us, it was the carpark near to the tourist information center.)

As a newbie to multi-day hikes and first-timer carrying a full-load backpack, the Magome-Tsumago trail was a perfect introduction to this historic route, the Nakasendo 中山道. First day covered 10km, 25,000 steps and 250m elevation. For beginners like me, the body did ache at night, so the onsen is a must! Blending breathtaking scenery, cultural heritage, and a touch of Edo-period charm, it left us eager for the adventures awaiting in the days ahead.

5D5N roadtrip in August Hokkaido! Day 5: Sight, Smell and Savor at Lake Toya and Noboribetsu

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Day 5 Summary:

  • 9:00 AM: Check out and drive to Lake Toya 洞爺湖 (1hr)
  • 10:30AM: Lake Toya Cruise Ride with disembarkation at Nakanoshima 中島 and back (80mins)
  • 12:00 NN: Drive to Takashina Fruit Farm (15min)
  • 12:15 PM: Visit to Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園
  • 1:15 PM: Drive to Noboribetsu onsen cho 登別温泉町
  • 2:15 PM: Lunch at Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン
  • 3:00 PM: Stop by Shrine of King Enma for a short display
  • 3:45 – 4:20 PM: Explore Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷
  • 7:00 PM: Dinner at a soba restaurant in Sapporo Kirinoshita 蕎麦屋 霧の下

9:00 AM: We kicked off Day 5 with an early start, and had a lovely buffet breakfast at our hotel. The drive towards Lake Toya was lovely and surrounded by lush greenery.

10:30AM: After about an hour, we arrived at the lake just in time for our Lake Toya Cruise Ride. Take note Nakanoshima Cruise Pier 中島巡り遊覧船桟橋 is located behind Hotel Grand Toya and there is free parking nearby. Cruise departs every 30 mins from the pier from 9am.

Toyakokisen Ferry Terminal 中島巡り遊覧船桟橋 洞爺湖汽船
Toyakoonsen, Toyako, Abuta District, Hokkaido 049-5721, Japan
〒049-5721　北海道虻田郡洞爺湖町洞爺湖温泉36-4
https://hokkaidoguide.com/lake-toya-ferry-cruise/
Map Code: 321 518 599 (Please double check location on map before driving!)

Lake Toya 洞爺湖 is breathtaking—a caldera lake with serene, glassy waters surrounded by picturesque mountains. The cruise gave us a relaxing chance to take in the stunning views, and the cool breeze on the deck was refreshing. Mount Usu 有珠山, an active volcano, loomed in the distance. The last time it erupted was in 2000. The cruise makes a stop at Nakajima and you can decide to disembark to hike on the island which is part of the Toya-Usu UNESCO Global Geopark. We decided to take some photos and a quick stroll on the island and then took the next cruise back.

Note! There’s fireworks in summer to autumn, but we did not plan to catch it this time. You can consider staying a night here at Lake Toya instead. There are also hikes which you can take for a day trip.

12:15 PM: Our next stop was the Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園 after we docked back on land and it was a short 10-15 min drive away. It’s a charming farm offering fresh fruit-picking experiences. While we missed fruit picking at Furano, we were just in time for blueberry season in Toyako! So, we grabbed baskets and set out into the fields. Picking the plump, sweet berries was a fun break and snacking on them fresh from the vine was a treat! The owners were nice, and gave us some plumes on top of the blueberry buffet. Again, be sure to check their website for what is in season so to avoid any disappointment!

Takashina Fruit Farm タカシナ観光果樹園
362 Takinomachi, Sōbetsu-chō, Usu District, Hokkaido 052-0101, Japan
〒052-0101 北海道有珠郡壮瞥町滝之町３６２番地
https://tk-fruit.com/

2:15 PM: For lunch, we headed towards Noboribetsu’s Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン, known for its lively atmosphere and hearty grilled meat dishes. We indulged in a delicious yakiniku meal, with sizzling cuts of beef and pork cooked right at our table. The mix of flavors—smoky, savory, and slightly sweet—was simply irresistible. It was the perfect way to refuel before continuing our journey.

Hokkaido BBQ NOBOJIN 北海道バーベキュー ノボジン
〒059-0551 Hokkaido, Noboribetsu, Noboribetsuonsencho, 76番地 石川ビル ２F

3:00 PM: After lunch, we visited the Shrine of King Enma, a towering guardian figure that stood watch over the area. There is a short display of music and change of face to remind people not to do evil! We did not visit the shrine itself as we had insufficient time this trip, but definitely worth a return in future!

3:45PM: Our next destination was Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷, which was just around the corner from King Enma. Noboribetsu Jigokudani is a volcanic crater spanning 11 hectares with a 450-meter diameter, formed by the volcanic activity of Mt. Hiyori from about 10,000 years ago. The valley is dotted with fumaroles and steaming vents, where bubbling, boiling waters give the landscape a surreal, almost otherworldly look—earning it the name “Oni no Sumu Jigoku,” or “Hell Where Demons Live.”

The landscape here was unlike anything else we’d seen or smelt so far on the trip—steaming hot springs, bubbling sulfur pits, and dramatic rock formations gave it an otherworldly feel. We took a short walk along the valley’s wooden paths in the drizzle, which lead to a viewpoint overlooking the entire area. The valley’s raw, rugged landscape really made it feel like we were standing on another planet. The water runs through with a jade like colour. Parking was 500 yen but you can park freely at the different parking lots available after payment. So instead of walking to Oyunuma 大湯沼 and okunoyu 奥の湯, we drove over.

The place is hot and steaming, smelt terrible but makes you want to stay for the onsen! If you have an additional night, I recommend staying here! Noboribetsu is one of Hokkaido’s famous spa towns, and its naturally occurring hot springs rank among Japan’s best.

Noboribetsu Jigokudani (Hell Valley) 登別地獄谷
Noboribetsuonsencho, Noboribetsu, Hokkaido 059-0551, Japan
https://noboribetsu-spa.jp/en/spot/spot0034/
https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1908/
Map Code: 603 288 360 (Please double check location on map before driving!)

By late afternoon, we were back on the road, heading towards Sapporo. It was a long but scenic drive. The drive was overall pleasant, taking the toll roads. However, you want to take note that there might be traffic jam driving into Sapporo at the exits. Remember to cater time for slow traffic if you are heading back to Sapporo. We took at least 1.5 hours exiting the highway.

7:00 PM: We arrived in Sapporo just in time for vehicle return and dinner. After checking into our hotel, we decided to go for something comforting and local—soba. We found a cozy soba restaurant Kirinoshita 蕎麦屋 霧の下 where the noodles were handmade and served cold with a dipping sauce. After a full day of exploring, the simplicity and freshness of the meal were exactly what we needed to wind down.

Kirinoshita Sapporo Apia Ten 霧の下 札幌アピア店
3 Chome Kita 5 Jonishi, Chuo Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 060-0005, Japan
https://tabelog.com/hokkaido/A0108/A010803/1059982/

This ends my 5 day trip in Sapporo! Thanks for following! Hope you enjoy the mix of natural beauty, cultural sites and delicious food of Sapporo!

5D5N in August Hokkaido! Day 4: Exploring Otaru and Relaxing in Niseko

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Otaru’s history as a prosperous port city during the Meiji period is evident in its old warehouses and European-inspired architecture. Otaru was once a hub for the herring fishing industry. It also served as a gateway for trade with Russia. Now, Otaru has transformed into a nostalgic tourist destination. It offers good food and beautiful crafts. Let’s dive into where to eat and shop during our visit!

Day 4 Summary:

  • 8:00 AM: Breakfast at Sankaku Shijo Otaru (三角市場 小樽)
  • Checkout from hotel and drove to Sakaimachi
  • 11:00 AM: Shopping in Otaru – Otaru Music Box Museum (小樽オルゴール堂 本館), Sakaimachi Street (小樽堺町通り商店街)
  • 3:15 PM: Leave for Niseko
  • 5:00 PM: Reach Hilton Niseko Village Resort
  • Onsen and dinner

8:00 AM: We began our day with a delicious breakfast. It was at Sankaku Shijo Otaru (三角市場 小樽) a small but lively morning market near the train station. If you love seafood, this place is heaven. (Note! It opens only at 8am.) Compared to other fish markets I have been to in Japan, Sankaku Shijo is not large. That said, in this small market, there are several places offering delicious and reasonably priced kaisen dons (sashimi over rice bowls).

Yes, people eat raw fish for breakfast in Japan! We picked the largest restaurant there as we were really hungry and did not want to wait. The place is called Ajidokoro Takeda 味処たけだ. It’s right in the center of the market so you will not miss it.

Ajidokoro Takeda (味処たけだ)
〒047-0032 Hokkaido, Otaru, Inaho, 3 Chome−10−16 三角市場内
otaru-takeda.com

There were uni dons (bowls with only sea urchin), and what’s amazing is that there were two different types of uni. You can choose to have either one or both. Besides uni, crab is one of their popular dishes. As such, I indulged in a Three-toppings rice bowl or 三色丼, with crab, salmon roe and uni. Every bite was heavenly. For those who prefer something else, there are plenty of options including cooked items too!

11:00 AM: After breakfast, we explored the charming streets of Otaru. Our first stop was the Otaru Music Box Museum 小樽オルゴール堂 本館, which was at one end of the Sakaimachi 小樽堺町通り商店街.

Trivia: オルゴール comes from the word orgel which means organ in Dutch.

Stepping inside felt like entering a dream. The museum is filled with beautifully crafted music boxes, each one unique. There are three floors. The first floor is mainly items on sale, the second floor is for crafts and museum, and on the third floor, I found a shop dedicated to Studio Ghibli-themed music boxes! Hearing the delicate tunes from My Neighbor Totoro was enchanting. The soft melodies floating through the museum made it a magical start to our day. We couldn’t resist and bought a music box from here.

Otaru Music Box Museum 小樽オルゴール堂 本館
4-1 Sumiyoshicho, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0015, Japan
otaru-orgel.co.jp

Next, we wandered down Sakaimachi Street (小樽堺町通り商店街), famous for its glassware shops. It’s the perfect place to pick up one-of-a-kind souvenirs. I picked up a beautiful hand-blown glass wind chime and a sake bottle set to bring home. The street also has tempting snacks—I highly recommend trying the green tea, cantaloupes, and dried squid.

3:15 PM: After shopping, we left Otaru and hit the road towards Hilton Niseko Village. This continues our journey in Hokkaido. The drive through the lush landscape was scenic, and by the time we arrived, we were ready for some relaxation.

5:00 PM: The outdoor onsen was exactly what I needed. The hot spring’s warmth eased away the day’s fatigue, and the stunning backdrop made it all the more special. For dinner, I decided to try something iconic—Hokkaido soup curry. This rich, flavorful dish was the perfect balance of hearty and spicy, filled with local vegetables and tender meat. A satisfying end to the day after soaking in the onsen.

Day 4 was a perfect mix of exploring Otaru’s historic charm and unwinding in Niseko’s natural beauty. Tomorrow promises more adventures!

Hilton Niseko Village
Niseko, Abuta District, Hokkaido 048-1592, Japan
hilton.com

5D5N in August Hokkaido! Day 3 in Otaru: Sunflowers, Chocolate, and Stunning Views

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Day 3 Summary:

  • 8:00 AM Check out from Y’s Hotel Asahikawa Station and drive
  • 9:30 AM Hokuryu Sunflower Village (Hokuryu Himawari no Sato)
  • 10:30 AM Drive towards Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town
  • 12:15 PM Lunch at a teishoku spot Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori in a nearby town
  • 1:00 PM Visit to Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town
  • 3:15 PM Quick stop at MEGA Don Quijote in Shirono
  • 5:15 PM Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck for a sea view
  • 8:00 PM Nighttime canal photos and dinner at Gyukaku in Otaru

8:00 AM After a restful night at Y’s Hotel in Asahikawa, we kicked off Day 3 of our Hokkaido adventure. We started the day with a scenic drive. Though Asahikawa is Hokkaido’s second-largest city, we didn’t linger. Instead, we headed straight for Hokuryu Sunflower Village, also known as Hokuryu Himawari no Sato, about an hour away.

9:15 AM There was a bit of a detour before we reached our destination. We accidentally ended up at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Hot Spring! But with a quick check-in for directions at the hotel, we were soon back on track and spotted our goal: the massive, vibrant sunflower fields at Hokuryu Sunflower Village.

The sight was absolutely breathtaking, with millions of sunflowers in full bloom, all standing tall and facing the same direction. The cheerful atmosphere made it impossible not to smile! Admission to the village is free, it’s open 24/7, and parking is also free—so it’s a must-visit if you’re in the area. If you have time, don’t miss the sunflower maze (maze requires entrance fee though!); it’s a fun way to immerse yourself in the beauty of the fields. We spent about 1 hour here, but you can easily stay longer just soaking it all in.

Hokuryu Sunflower Village (北竜町ひまわりの里)
143-2 Itaya, Hokuryu, Uryu District, Hokkaido 078-2511, Japan
Free Parking
Map Code Used: 179 870 679 (for Sunflower Park Hokuryu Hot Spring)
http://portal.hokuryu.info/himawari

12:15 PM Next on our agenda was a visit to the Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town. But first, we stopped for a delightful lunch at a small teishoku (set meal) restaurant. Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori was in a nearby town. The meal was simple yet delicious, reminding me of comforting school lunches. 

Teishoku-ya Toshi and Nori (定食屋とし&のり 当別店)
1509-222 Futomisutaraito, Tobetsu, Ishikari District, Hokkaido 061-3779, Japan
Free Parking
https://www.toshiandnori-toubetu.com/

1:00 PM Upon arriving at  Royce’ Cacao&Chocolate Town, for 1,200 yen, we took a fascinating tour of the facility. We learned about their cocoa sourcing. We also explored the interactive exhibits. It was a great exhibition with English explanations. I recommend giving it a go if you have time. One highlight was the jukebox museum inside—such a quirky addition! Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying the famous Royce chocolate ice cream, which was as decadent and creamy as expected. And, you cannot leave without buying lots of chocolate home! (Side note: We made a mistake of parking in the staff lot. We wondered why all the cars did not look like they were rented. Make sure you park at the right carpark!)

ROYCE’ CACAO&CHOCOLATE TOWN (ロイズカカオ&チョコレートタウン)
640-15 Bitoe, Tobetsu, Ishikari District, Hokkaido 061-3775, Japan
Free Parking
https://www.royce.com/cct/?fbclid=IwAR3PM9G5PkXuSFiScW-ROz9i0BqNiNONrAi_cysbHnhETmWVKMq0L8t3L-k

We made a quick stop at MEGA Don Quijote in Shirono for some shopping, then drove to the Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck. The view of the sea from the deck was absolutely stunning and made for a perfect photo op. 

MEGA Don Quijote, Shinoro (MEGAドン・キホーテ 篠路店)
1 Chome-1-1 Taihei 12 Jo, Kita Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 002-8012, Japan

Otaru Shukutsu Panorama Observation Deck (小樽祝津パノラマ展望台)
3 Chome Shukutsu, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0047, Japan
https://otaru-hokkaido.com/shukutsupanoramatembodai/

Before wrapping up the day, we returned to Otaru for some nighttime canal photography and ended the day with a cozy dinner at Gyukaku. It was a day full of surprises, great food, and unforgettable sights. Stay tuned for Day 4 as we continue exploring Hokkaido! Don’t forget to subscribe for more travel videos and articles!

Hotel – We stayed at Otaru Authent Hotel. There’s parking beside the hotel at 1500 yen.

Otaru Authent Hotel (オーセントホテル小樽)
2 Chome-15-1 Inaho, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0032, Japan
http://www.authent.co.jp/
Parking 1,500 yen beside the hotel

5D5N in August Hokkaido! Day 2: Must-See Sites and Delicious Stops in Furano

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Day 2 Summary:

  • 8:30 AM: Car Rental
  • Sunagawa Service Area
  • 11:00 AM: Ohashi Cherry Farm
  • 12:00 PM: Tomita Farm
  • 3:00 PM: Furano Cheese Factory
  • 4:30 PM: Shirogane Blue Pond (Aoiike) & Shirahige Waterfall
  • 7:00 PM: Asahikawa Ramen Village
  • Y’s Hotel Asahikawa Station

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost region, is renowned for its stunning nature and delicious local produce. Despite being a prefecture, Hokkaido stands out as Japan’s largest, both in size and number of municipalities, and is the second-largest island in the country. Unlike other prefectures, it carries the unique designation of “道” (do), stemming from historical classifications during the Meiji period when vast regions like Hokkaido were governed as a whole. While the administrative distinction has since disappeared, Hokkaido’s name remains a nod to its significant past.

Given the region’s size, we opted to drive rather than rely on trains, picking up our rental car at 8:30 am on our second day. For first-time drivers, remember to bring a physical copy of your international license. Car rental agencies often provide map codes for popular destinations, a much simpler navigation method than deciphering Japanese road names. I also recommend getting insurance and an ATC toll card with fixed rates, as tolls can add up quickly—sometimes up to 4,000 yen a day—but the convenience and time savings of expressways make it worth the cost.

8:30 AM After picking up our rental car, we hit the road (taking route 5) with a quick stop at the Sunagawa Service Area for some essentials. Service areas in Japan are little treasure troves—perfect for grabbing souvenirs, snacks, or just stretching your legs.

Sunagawa Service Area
478 Sorachibuto, Sunagawa, Hokkaido 073-0106, Japan

11:00 AM Our first real stop was Ohashi Cherry Farm. Although we were in between seasons and missed the cherry-picking window, we still managed to grab some fresh cherries of different varieties. The golden cherries 月山錦　がっさんにしき　Gassan Nishiki, in particular, were a rare treat—so sweet and delicious! If you’re heading to a farm, I recommend checking their website first to see what fruits are in season. It was fun to sample and buy cherries, even without the full picking experience.

Ohashi Cherry Farm (大橋さくらんぼ園) Oohashi Sakurabo En 
469 Kamiashibetsucho, Ashibetsu, Hokkaido 079-1371, Japan

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12:00 PM Our next destination was the famous Farm Tomita. Known for its sprawling lavender fields, the farm is a must-visit if you’re in the area. Unfortunately, we missed peak lavender season due to the unpredictable weather, but there were still plenty of flowers to admire! The farm blooms year-round, so there’s always something to see, from vivid summer blossoms to early autumn hues.

In addition to exploring Tomita Farm’s seasonal flowers and perfume-making techniques, we decided to stay for lunch to try their unique lavender-infused cuisine. Rather than venturing out, we enjoyed a meal right at the farm, sampling lavender drinks, curries, and a flavorful potato gratin. It was a delightful experience, and I couldn’t pass up the chance to try these creative dishes. We couldn’t resist trying the lavender ice cream—an absolute must—and the lavender-infused drinks. There’s a real charm to sampling lavender dishes while surrounded by fields of flowers. The seasonal melons added an unexpected twist, making the meal both memorable and fitting for our visit.

We also checked out the perfume shop, which was fascinating. You can learn about how different fragrances are created and pick up some calming lavender products for home. Pro tip: Take your time here—there’s plenty of space for snapping those Insta-worthy flower shots!

Farm Tomita (ファーム富田)
15 Kisenkita, Nakafurano, Sorachi District, Hokkaido 071-0704, Japan
Map Code Used: 349 276 593
http://www.farm-tomita.co.jp/

Cafe Rene (カフェ ルネ)
１５号, Nakafurano, Sorachi District, Hokkaido 071-0731, Japan

3:00 PM: After Farm Tomita, we headed to the Furano Cheese Factory. Here, you can learn how to make cheese, butter, and even ice cream! While we didn’t join a class this time, we still indulged in some freshly made ce cream, and of course, brought home some cheese. The factory offers a great mix of learning and tasting—perfect for a fun family stop.

Furano Cheese Factory (富良野チーズ工房)
Naka5ku, Furano, Hokkaido 076-0013, Japan
Map Code Used: 550 840 201
http://www.furano-cheese.jp/

4:30 PM: Next up, we drove to Shirogane Blue Pond. This scenic spot in Biei is famous for its striking blue waters, a natural phenomenon caused by minerals mixing with the water from nearby Shirahige Falls. The color is almost otherworldly—pictures don’t do it justice, you have got to see it for yourself! We spent some time wandering around, soaking in the beauty from different viewpoints. According to JNTO, the pond was accidentally created when water from the nearby falls mixed with aluminum from the cliff.

Not far from the pond are the Shirahige Falls, which are just as stunning, cascading from layers of volcanic rock. The falls get their name from their resemblance to a white beard— ‘Shirahige’ in Japanese. The water flows out from between two rock layers, with the top layer formed from lava flows during volcanic eruptions. The water is crystal clear, and the whole scene feels like something out of a painting.

Shirogane Blue Pond (Aoiike 白金青い池)
Shirogane, Biei, Kamikawa District, Hokkaido 071-0235, Japan
Map Code Used: 349 568 888
https://www.japan.travel/en/sports/snow/snow-travel/blue-pond/
Parking: 500 yen

Shirahige Waterfall (白ひげの滝)
Map Code Used: 796 182 604
Shirogane, Biei, Kamikawa District, Hokkaido 071-0235, Japan

7:00 PM We rounded off our day with a hearty dinner at Asahikawa Ramen Village. This spot brings together some of the region’s best ramen shops, all in one place. We ended up choosing Tenkin—famous for its rich, buttery Asahikawa-style ramen. (My friend got that and I got another.) The corn and butter combination in the soup was a pleasant surprise, adding a unique sweetness to the savory broth. If you’re a ramen lover, this place is an absolute must. We wanted to try a few but the queues were too long to make that possible. 

Asahikawa Ramen Village (あさひかわラーメン村) / Tenkin (Ramen Village) らーめんや天金 ラーメン村店
Map Code Used: 794 104 54
4 Chome-119-48 Nagayama 11 Jo, Asahikawa, Hokkaido 079-8421, Japan

That wraps up Day 2 of our Hokkaido adventure! From flower fields and fruit farms to cheese factories and breathtaking natural scenery, Hokkaido really knows how to keep you entertained (and well-fed). Don’t forget to subscribe for more travel videos and articles!

Hotel – We stayed at Y’s Hotel Asahikawa Station. There’s parking behind the hotel (Map Code Used: 73943232). Remember check with the hotel reception on whether they have parking coupons. What we did not realise was that the hotel can give you a special fixed rate. You can enter and exit as many times as you want during that window before you check out.

Y’s Hotel Asahikawa Station (ワイズホテル 旭川駅前)
〒070-0030 Hokkaido, Asahikawa, Miyashitadori, 9 Chome−2−17 ツルハビルディング ３階～１２階https://yshotel-asahikawa.com/

5D5N Hokkaido in Early August! Slightly Late in the Season? Day 1 in Sapporo

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Day 1 Summary:

  • Arrival from New Chitose Airport
  • 10:09 AM Train to Sapporo City
  • 11:30 AM Lunch at Sapporo Ichiryuan (ラーメン札幌一粒庵)
  • Daimaru, JR Sapporo Station area, JR Tower
  • Sapporo Clock Tower
  • Sapporo TV Tower
  • (Limited period) Ice Cream Festival at Marui Imai Sapporo Main Store (丸井今井札幌本店)
  • 4:00 PM Sapporo Beer Museum
  • Dinner at Curry Kitchen Onion (カレーキッチン オニオン)

Where to escape the scorching heat of August? Though August may be considered slightly late for a Hokkaido summer escape, the prospect of cooler weather and delicious food had me eagerly anticipating this trip. While June and July are the popular months to visit, Hokkaido still has much to offer in August for those, like me, who seek a slightly off-season adventure.

After an early morning flight into New Chitose Airport, we hopped on the 10:09 AM Sub Rapid Airport Train (区間快速エアポート) to Sapporo. This train arrives earlier than the next Rapid Airport Train (快速エアポート), which departs at 10:20 AM, shaving precious minutes off the journey. The Sub Rapid Airport Train is a 43-minute ride, while the Rapid Airport Train is a 37-minute ride, both costing 1,150円.

Since we were early, we headed to the hotel to drop off our bags. A quick tip! It’s good to check if the hotel allows bag deposit before checking in. Early check-in costs as much as 1,000 yen per hour, and you should let the hotel know at least a day in advance.

Conveniently located near JR Sapporo Station, our hotel allowed us to quickly venture out for lunch. We stumbled upon a ramen gem specializing in miso ramen:

Sapporo Ichiryuan (ラーメン札幌一粒庵)
〒060-0004 Hokkaido, Sapporo, Chuo Ward, Kita 4 Jonishi, 1 Chome−1番 ホクレンビル 地下１階

Their specialty, the Genki no deru miso ramen (元気のでるみそラーメン), is a must-try, especially for garlic and miso lovers. Instead of the large chashu slices, the pork is finely chopped and blended into the rich, fragrant broth. Loved it! What you see in the picture is a small.

After a satisfying lunch, we strolled through the nearby JR Tower and Daimaru. Here, you can get souvenirs from all across Hokkaido. Make sure to try the creamy and smooth soft serve from Sapporo Agricultural College—it’s the creamiest I’ve ever had!

After this delightful treat, we set off to explore Sapporo’s historic landmarks: the Sapporo Clock Tower (時計台, Tokeidai), constructed in 1878, and the Sapporo TV Tower (さっぽろテレビ塔), built in the 1950s. The Sapporo Clock Tower, a symbol of the city’s Western influences during the Meiji era, stands as a testament to Hokkaido’s rich history. Its simple yet elegant design, coupled with the rhythmic ticking of its century-old mechanism, offers a quiet moment in modern Sapporo.

If you plan to visit both the Clock Tower and TV Tower, consider getting the combined ticket for 1,100 yen, saving you 100 yen. If you only choose one, the Clock Tower (200 yen) is worth it for a glimpse into Sapporo’s past.

We were in luck, as an ice cream festival was happening at Marui Imai Sapporo Main Store (丸井今井札幌本店). Hokkaido is famous for its dairy products, so we decided to join in to see what was offered. And the ice cream was yummy! Note that this is for a limited period only!

Afterwards, we checked into our hotel to freshen up before heading to the Sapporo Beer Museum (サッポロビール博物館) and Beer Garden. A must-visit for beer enthusiasts, the museum offers a fascinating look at the history of Sapporo beer, including how Black Label got its name and the brewing process behind it. While we opted for a more flexible itinerary, the premium tour (1,000 yen for a 50-minute tour and tasting) is worth considering. Post-tour, you can enjoy tastings of their original brew (Kaitakushi), classic, and Black Label beers. There’s also a beer garden and a shopping mall if you’d like to settle dinner here.

Museum Hours:

Dinner was another delightful find:

Curry Kitchen Onion (カレーキッチン オニオン)
4 Chome-28-49 Kita 7 Johigashi, Higashi Ward, Sapporo, Hokkaido 060-0907, Japan

We tried both the beef curry and dry chicken curry. They were flavorful and aromatic. After dinner, we had an early night to rest for the drive tomorrow!

From the rich miso ramen to the crisp taste of freshly brewed beer, coupled with the city’s blend of old and new, Sapporo is a great first stop in Hokkaido.