Day 2 Summary:
8:00 AM: Shuttle from Tokonamiso to Tsumago-juku, then hike to Nagiso Station 南木曽駅 (1hr, 3.9km)
9:30 AM: Breakfast at Nagiso Pierrot
11:00 AM: Nagiso to Nojiri-juku 中山道野尻宿 (5.5hr, 15.6km)
5:27 PM: Train from Nojiri 野尻 to Kiso-Fukushima Station 木曽福島駅
6:15 PM: Bus to hotel
Evening: Dinner at Kiso Mikawaya 自由旅クラブ木曽三河家

Day 2 of our Nakasendo adventure was our longest hiking day yet—nearly 20 kilometers of this historic trail. After yesterday’s gentle introduction from Magome to Tsumago, today would test our endurance as we tackled the challenging route to Nojiri-juku.

8:00 AM: We started early with the complimentary shuttle from our ryokan Tokonamiso back to Tsumago-juku. The morning air was crisp, and mist still clung to the mountains as we prepared for what would be our most demanding day on the trail. From Tsumago, we began the steady descent toward Nagiso Station—a relatively easy 3.9-kilometer warm-up that took us through peaceful countryside and traditional villages.

The path from Tsumago winds through small hamlets, offering glimpses of rural Japanese life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. The distant sound of the Kiso River accompanied our footsteps.

09:30 AM: After reaching Nagiso Station, we took time to properly prepare for the long day ahead. We made essential stops for supplies. We visited 蔦屋製菓舗 (Tsutaya Seikaho) for snacks, picking up traditional Japanese sweets and energy-boosting treats that would sustain us throughout the day. At サンショップ・イシカワ (San Shop Ishikawa), we stocked up on water and lunch packs—crucial provisions for what we anticipated would be a long mountain hike with limited food options.

We had a lovely breakfast at Pierrot, a charming rustic café in Nagiso that provided the perfect fuel for our hiking day. The cozy atmosphere and hearty breakfast gave us a slow-paced, relaxed start before tackling what we expected to be our most demanding trail section. After Pierrot, we crossed the Momosuke Bridge 桃介橋 that marked the start of the next part of our trail.

蔦屋製菓舗 (Tsutaya Seikaho)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書東栄町3436-26
3436-26 Reading Toei-Cho, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
電話: 0264-57-2069 TEL: 0264-57-2069
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Traditional sweets and hiking snacks

サンショップ・イシカワ (San Shop Ishikawa)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書
Yomikaki, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check
Water and lunch pack supplies

Pierrot (Breakfast Café)
〒399-5301 長野県木曽郡南木曽町読書東栄町3592-8
3592-8 Yomikaki Higashi Sakae-Machi, Nagiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 399-5301, Japan
電話: 0264-57-2093 TEL: 0264-57-2093
営業時間: 要確認 定休日: 要確認 Operating Hours: Please check

11:00 AM: From Nagiso, the traditional trail to Nojiri-juku should stretch 15.6 kilometers through some of the most isolated sections of the Nakasendo. As we learned that the original hiking route was blocked due to trail conditions from the day before, we had to take the alternative natural route instead of the planned mountain trail. This detour led us along a combination of forest paths and local roads, creating a very different experience from what we had anticipated.

While not the authentic Nakasendo trail we had hoped for, this alternative route offered its own unique insights. A significant portion of our route took us through residential areas and along local roads near people’s houses. Walking through these quiet rural neighborhoods gave us glimpses of everyday Japanese life that tourists rarely see. There were also warning signs about dogs protecting the area from wild animals.

1:00 PM We had a quick break for lunch. Bathing in the sunlight through the trees, and sounds of the river beside us. The highlight of our unexpected detour was discovering a beautiful waterfall Ushigataki Falls 牛が滝 hidden in the forest of Kakizore Gorge 柿其渓谷 —a scenic reward we wouldn’t have encountered on the original trail. The climb to the top of the stairs was quite scary for me! I was glad my friends enjoyed the climb and scenery. These spontaneous discoveries often become the most memorable parts of any journey.

4:30 PM After navigating the alternative route and road sections, we finally arrived at Nojiri-juku, more tired than expected from the unexpected terrain changes. The physical demands of the day came not from mountain climbs but from the extended distance on paved roads, which tested our feet and legs in different ways. Road walking requires different stamina than trail hiking, and we quickly learned to appreciate the cushioning that forest paths provide. Nojiri is quieter, less polished, and genuinely lived-in. With barely any tourists, Nojiri retains the sleepy atmosphere of a forgotten mountain village. We hurried as it was important to catch the right train otherwise we will waste a lot of time.

5:27 PM: From Nojiri, we caught the local train to Kiso-Fukushima Station—a welcome relief after walking nearly 20 kilometers. The short train ride through the Kiso Valley provided beautiful sunset views and gave our aching legs a much-needed rest.

6:15 PM: At Kiso-Fukushima Station, we hopped on the Kaida Kogen bus line (¥200) for the short ride to our accommodation. Even this simple bus journey felt like a luxury after the day’s exertion!

Evening: We settled into Kiso Mikawaya 自由旅クラブ木曽三河家, a traditional mountain lodge that perfectly captured the spirit of our Nakasendo journey. The dinner featured regional specialties that provided the perfect end to our most challenging day.

自由旅クラブ木曽三河家 ホテル (Kiso Mikawaya)
〒397-0001 長野県木曽郡木曽町福島5782
5782 Fukushima, Kiso-machi, Kiso-gun, Nagano 397-0001, Japan
電話: 0264-24-3332 TEL: 0264-24-3332
チェックイン: 15:00 チェックアウト: 10:00 Check-in: 3:00 PM Check-out: 10:00 AM
http://kiso-mikawaya.com/

Day 2 covered approximately 20 kilometers, but not the route we had originally planned. While the blocked traditional trail was disappointing, the alternative natural route offered its own rewards—discovering hidden waterfalls, walking through authentic rural neighborhoods, and experiencing the flexibility required for adventure travel. This unexpected detour reminded us that historical routes aren’t always accessible, and sometimes the unplanned paths provide equally valuable experiences.

For hikers considering this route, always check current trail conditions at the tourist information centers, as weather and maintenance can affect accessibility. Having backup route options and flexible expectations are essential for Nakasendo hiking.